Mkhambathi Nature Reserve

It is undeniable that South Africa is filled with incredible nature destinations, and I love visiting them and discovering the beauty that our country holds. One of these destinations is a hidden gem called Mkhambathi Nature Reserve in the Eastern Cape.

location

Mkhambathi Nature Reserve is situated on the coast between Port Edward and Port St Johns and while it is an effort to get there it is definitely worth it. The roads to get there are riddled with potholes and the 40km dirt road stretch from Flagstaff can be challenging. The reserve is bounded by two rivers, the Mtentu to the north and Msikaba to the south.

Information

The reserve covers an area of over 8000ha and consists of open grasslands dotted with forest patches and swamp forests making it a unique landscape to experience. It forms part of the greater Pondoland Marine Protected Area and the Pondoland Centre of Endemism, making it one of the most important centres of plant diversity and endemism in Africa. The reserve is managed by the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency (ECPTA) and accommodation bookings can be made through their website.

I have added a map here from the information we gathered on our trip as the map they provided isn’t very clear, it is not very detailed but gives you an idea of where the main points of interest are located

History

In 1922 people were moved out of the area and a leper colony with a hospital was established on 18 000 ha of rolling coastal grassland. When leprosy was cured, the facility became a TB hospital. In 1977 a provincial nature reserve was proclaimed in a third of the 18 000 ha. A land claim for the reserve, including the surrounding area, was lodged and granted in 2004 and the applicants were constituted as the Mkhambathi Land Trust (MLT), with the condition that Mkhambathi Nature Reserve be maintained as a reserve and co-managed with ECPTA. The reserve has remained in an untransformed state and there are few settlements in close proximity to it. The adjacent grassland areas are just as valuable in terms of biodiversity and there is a possibility that more land will be incorporated into the reserve in future. (https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/)

Vegetation

Some extremely important vegetation types are protected in Mkhambathi. Examples of the Pondoland-Ugu Sandstone Coastal Sourveld grasslands in this reserve are the only ones under formal conservation, while its Pondoland Scarp Forests are some of the most significant forests in South Africa. The false water-berry Rhynchocalyx lawsonioides and the endangered Pondo palm Jubaeopsis caffra are endemic to this area.

Things to Do

While you may want to relax, there is a lot to keep visitors busy including: fishing in designated areas (with a permit), swimming, mountain biking, birdwatching and self driving to see animals - a 4x4 is necessary especially in the rainy season. We did not have a 4x4 and made use of the game drive service which I highly recommend (enquire at reception for pricing). Most visitors enjoy hiking through the reserve especially along the coast and the trail from Mkhambathi Falls to Horseshoe Falls. There is no dangerous game which makes it safe to explore and we especially enjoyed swimming in the many rock pools - see video below.

Accommodation

When we visited the reserve several years ago, we stayed in GweGwe Rondawels which is an incredible location right at the foot of the ocean. People who visited Mkhambahti in the past would have fond memories of those huts. Apparently these rondawels have been demolished to make way for a new boutique hotel which is said to open in 2024. The current accommodation options are basic but functional cottages.

We loved visiting this reserve and would love to return again as there is a lot to explore!

2 x Stone Cottages while Cottage no.6 is an old house

Tips: Remember that is it is far away from everything with no cellphone signal so you really do relax, but that also means you need to plan well in advance and take everything that you may need. Perhaps the boutique lodge is up and running sometime this year and then you can stay there in luxury!

~ G.S

References:

https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/

https://visiteasterncape.co.za/parks/mkhambathi/

http://bookonline.ecpta.co.za/?q=node/45 - website to book accommodation

Kruger National Park (Southern) Overview

King of the Beasts - always a highlight to see a Lion in the Kruger Park

Hundreds, if not thousands, of books, guides and references have been written about this incredible place and so I was wondering if I should even write a blog about it? I realised that I like to write and share about places (gardens, landscapes, parks, nature experiences) that inspire me whether these are well known or not. So even though you may know the Kruger Park very well perhaps this post will inspire you to visit it again in the near future.

Quick Historical Fact

The park was first proclaimed in 1898 as the Sabie Game Reserve by the then president of the Transvaal Republic, Paul Kruger. He first proposed the need to protect the animals of the Lowveld in 1884, but his revolutionary vision took another 12 years to be realised when the area between the Sabie and Crocodile Rivers was set aside for restricted hunting. On 31 May 1926 the National Parks Act was proclaimed and with it the merging of the Sabie and Shingwedzi Game Reserves into the Kruger National Park.
The first motorists entered the park in 1927 for a fee of one pound. (https://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/tourism/history.php)

The Place to Go for Nature Lovers

Visiting the Kruger Park is a memorable experience and especially so for nature lovers - the sounds, smells, birds, trees and wildlife are what many South Africans love about the Bush . The Kruger is a special place to visit as each time can be completely different depending on what time of year you visit as well as which parts you go to. It is a very large reserve and with the slow speed limit it can take hours of travelling between camps. Talk to people who have visited before get good tips and plan accordingly. Don’t forget your Mosquito repellent, Binocs, Birdbook, Camera and the essential Snake-Bite Kit (Cooler box of drinks and snacks).

Southern Kruger, Map where sightings can be shared at most stops in the Park

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Restcamps

We have stayed at three of the camps in the Southern part of the Kruger Park over the past while and here is a bit more detail about each of them. In most of the camps the accommodation is basic but clean and there are different options to choose from. You can walk around the camps to see birds and small animals and most of the trees have nametags. In all the camps the area for Overnight Guests is normally separated from the area where Day Visitors can access. The pools are reserved for people staying over but the restaurant and shops are open for all.

 Berg en Dal Restcamp

Berg en Dal is the most Southern camp and located very close to the Malelane Gate entrance. A highlight is always stopping on the bridge when entering at Malelane Gate to look down onto the Crocodile River and spot all the birds, crocs and hippos in the waters below. Berg en Dal camp has many beautiful trees and a small museum dedicated to Rhinos. The restaurant overlooks a small dam and there is a walk a short way along the river with braille signage boards. The Rhino walk through the camp is a lovely trail that has information boards and a great way to experience nature while walking safely.

Berg en Dal (Afrikaans for Hill and Valley) is named after the undulating hills in the area

Lower Sabie Restcamp

One of the best camps in Kruger in my opinion. This part of the Park is always filled with abundant game as the animals are drawn to the Lower Sabie River that runs adjacent to the camp. There are also magnificent trees to be found along the road that follows the river as well as in the camp. The restaurant at the camp where the shop is located is built out onto a large deck that overlooks the river and it is lovely to sit here and have a drink or ice-cream while game watching the riverbed below. Sunset Dam, just outside the restcamp, is a wonderful dam for seeing game including hippos and crocodiles (and herons surfing on crocodiles!) and there are nice game drive options from the camp.

Pretoriouskop Restcamp

Pretoriuskop is located on the South Western side of the park and is nearest to Numbi Gate. One of the highlights of this camp is the beautiful swimming pool. The pool is built into the rocks and is a great way to cool down from the heat of the Lowveld. There are several routes to take as an afternoon drive from the camp and walking through the camp to see the beautiful trees and birds is also recommended.

Like so many others, I love the experience of visiting the Kruger Park - the animals, the birds, the trees and the closeness to nature. I also want my children to grow up experiencing the beauty of the Bushveld and hope they will appreciate the complexity of plant and animal communities functioning together where every creature is part of a greater system. We don’t go only to see the big 5, we go to see the animals less seen and often the sightings of snakes, tortoises, chameleons and birds have been our most exciting.

Visiting Kruger with Kids

I have been careful to not take my kids while they were too young for fear of malaria. Now that they are old enough where I am comfortable to stay over in the Park I am so excited to share the experience of the Bush with them. Most kids hate the hours of driving but the novelty of going seatbelt-free is one that they love. We normally put a mattress in the boot of the car so they can climb back and forth and read their books when they get bored looking for animals. I keep activity books and loads of snacks ready to keep them entertained. One of the joys of sharing the Kruger with young kids is that every sighting is exciting. We try to limit the amount of time driving and spend more time exploring the restcamp and stopping wherever possible.

Do you know what my favourite part of visiting the Kruger Park is? The Sunsets.. and the Trees.

Sterculia murex (Lowveld Chestnut)

Rhigozum obovatum (Yellow Pomegranate)

What do you love about the Bush or what has been one of your favourite Kruger Park Experiences?

To Book: https://www.sanparks.org/

Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve

Situated about an hours drive to the South of Johannesburg lies a nature reserve that is well known to birders, hikers and cyclists. The reserve is named after the Transvaal Sugar-bush (Protea caffra), which occurs chiefly in the eastern and south-eastern parts. The basic objectives of the nature reserve are to “conserve the natural environment ensuring that plant and animal species diversity is maintained and provide open-air outside recreation, environmental education and research opportunities”.

There are several trails in the reserve and more information can be found on the website. The Cheetah Trail is 4km and takes approximately 1.5hours. The Bokmakierie Day Trail is 10 or 11.5km. There are overnight huts along the hiking trail if you would like to do an overnight hike (self-guided and plan your own route).

Cussonia paniculata towering above us on the Toktokkie Trail

The tar road through the reserve provides the ideal challenge for cyclists as a single loop is 60 km and if you are even fitter you can add the second loop. We drove (this time, hopefully more cycling in the future) and enjoyed the views, stopping to walk short distances to look out points. Once back at the Base Camp (Diepkloof Picnic Area) we walked the short 700m Toktokkie Trail that winds up a gentle hill and provides a lovely view over the reserve. The trail is wheelchair friendly and the paved pathway has several signage boards along the route. The boards provide insights into nature that can be seen along the trail such as cabbage trees, aloes and lichen covered rocks. We also spotted several birds and some zebra.

Toktokkie Trail with Information Boards

We visited the reserve in winter so you can see the grasses are all yellow and the veld often burnt. In summer this reserve is all shades of green and filled with birdsong.

The vegetation is grassland with two grassland types namely Moist Cool Grassland and Rocky Highveld Grassland. Clumps of trees, especially White stinkwood (Celtis africana), Highveld cabbage tree (Cussonia paniculata), Ouhout (Leucosidea sericea), Sweet Thorn (Acacia karroo), the Highveld Protea (Protea caffra), and the Common Guarri (Euclea undulata) can be found.

The reserve boasts small and large game such as zebra, wildebees and antelope as well as excellent birdlife. A variety of habitats (high altitude grassland, rocky outcrops, wooded valleys, protea woodland and wetlands) provide excellent opportunities to see the abundant birdlife and over 270 species have been recorded (See Birdlife South Africa Post). We even spotted a snake warming itself on the tar road and climbed out to get a closer look.

Large parking area for cyclists and hikers

After exploring we enjoyed a picnic at the children’s play area next to the parking area. There are jungle gyms, a trampoline and trees with benches below to sit on.

Visiting this reserve is certainly a memorable nature experience and you may even find yourself singing “Suikerbos Ek wil jou he” on your way home.

https://www.friendsofsuikerbosrand.co.za/

COHEN, C. SPOTTISWOODE, C. & ROSSOUW, J. 2006 Southern African Birdfinder. Cape Town: Struik Nature

Melville Koppies

Like many people who have lived in Johannesburg for many years (some even their whole lives!) I had never visited the nature reserve in the heart of Johannesburg.

I had heard so much about it - the beautiful views, the amazing birdlife (over 200 spp), the incredible flora and the rich history that this nature reserve held so I was so excited to finally visit it. I met with a group of friends in the Marks Park Sport Club parking lot off Judith Road and we crossed carefully to enter the Main Gates framed by stone walls.

The reserve has recently changed its opening times to every Sunday morning from 8 to 11.30am. Visitors are welcomed on arrival by volunteers and given a map so that they can explore the trails at their own pace. The cost is R80 per adult and R40 per child and all proceeds are used towards the maintenance of the Park. Guided tours for small groups can be arranged.

The Central section was proclaimed a nature reserve in 1959 and is a declared national heritage site. The 50ha area can be explored through pathways and there are information boards detailing the heritage and history of the area as well as the fauna and flora to be found there.

The reserve is made up of three sections namely Melville Koppies Central, Melville Koppies East and Melville Koppies West. The East and West sections are open public space and access is not controlled. The East side is only 10ha in size and is frequented by dog walkers while the West section is 100ha large and borders the Westpark Cemetery. There are security issues here so it is advisable to only hike in groups with security. I was surprised to see security guards actively patrolling the nature reserve (Central) when we visited on Sunday and this really added to a sense of safety which is always a concern when visiting public spaces in Johannesburg.

Map from the Melville Koppies Website (www.mk.org.za/mkcal.htm)

Map of Melville Koppies Central Walking Paths

More information on the geology of the reserve can be found on their website www.mk.org.za

Vegetation

The vegetation of the Koppies is entirely indigenous and is a remarkable example of the richness of highveld grasses, flowers, and trees so close to a city centre. The variety of the flora can be seen in the 500 identified species within the eight undisturbed plant communities that have been identified. There are also 56 species of grass recorded and the dominant trees include Acacia robusta, Acacia caffra, Euclea crispa (Blue Guarri), Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Brachylaena rotundata and (Mountain Silver-oak). The Protea caffra and Mundelea sericea (Corkbush) were also lovely to see.

Along the western boundary where the Westdene Spruit flows a beautiful riverine forest can be found with large Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Combretum erythrophyllum (River Bushwillows), Olea europea (Wild Olive), and Kiggelaria africana (Wild Peach). The trees were planted in the 1960s to show people how beautiful our indigenous trees are. This part of the reserve is known as the Arboretum and was a highlight for me - the flowing water is calming and the trees beautiful and shady.

Water

This stream, the Westdene Spruit, is one of the many streams flowing north from the Witwatersrand watershed. Among them are the Braamfontein Spruit and the Jukskei, and they all eventually join the Limpopo River, which enters the Indian Ocean at Xai-Xai in Mozambique.

History

Melville Koppies carries evidence of ancient hunter-gatherers, early farmers as well as the first iron-age miners of the Witwatersrand. In 1989 Professor R J Mason published a "Guide to Archaeology Sites: Johannesburg". The purpose of the paper was as much to inform and educate the public as to make a plea for greater awareness of the heritage we are losing.

He identified seven archaeological sites on what we call Melville Koppies Central: African Iron Furnace Models; A second Tswana Iron Furnace; Tswana hut floor and pottery - 300 years old; 1880s gold prospecting; 1900s gun emplacement and Early 1900s quarries. There are information boards and examples of some of the tools and implements on display at the lecture hall.

The fascinating history of how the original Braamfontein farm passed to Louw Geldenhuis during the gold rush in 1886 and how the northern suburbs evolved out of this can also be viewed on an information board at the lecture hall.

Volunteers

The nature reserve would not be what it is today without the involvement of passionate and dedicated volunteers. The Melville Koppies Management Committee works hard to maintain the paths, control alien invasive vegetation, pick up litter and control illegal access to maintain the reserve on an ongoing basis. They also are always looking for ways to raise money for the reserve so that the salaries of the staff they employ can be paid as well as the additional security they hire.

Richard Hall devoted over 25 years to the maintenance of Melville Koppies and together with David Mpilo, a Council worker they tackled projects of cleaning, weeding and restoring the reserve. Wendy Carstens began to work with Richard Hall from 1997 and is still actively involved today. She received the honorary Ellen Kuzwayo award from the University of Johannesburg for ‘Her commitment to conservation and tourism at Melville Koppies’.

How can you help

You can help firstly by visiting (have you?) and also by making donations to Melville Koppies (bank details on their website) or by registering them as a MySchoolMyVillageMyPlanet beneficiary.

Contact Wendy Carstens wendavid@mweb.co.za for further information. www.mk.org.za

We loved our time spent at Melville Koppies and will definitely be back again! Thank you to all those involved in the upkeep and running of this historical and ecological gem.