Mkhambathi Nature Reserve

It is undeniable that South Africa is filled with incredible nature destinations, and I love visiting them and discovering the beauty that our country holds. One of these destinations is a hidden gem called Mkhambathi Nature Reserve in the Eastern Cape.

location

Mkhambathi Nature Reserve is situated on the coast between Port Edward and Port St Johns and while it is an effort to get there it is definitely worth it. The roads to get there are riddled with potholes and the 40km dirt road stretch from Flagstaff can be challenging. The reserve is bounded by two rivers, the Mtentu to the north and Msikaba to the south.

Information

The reserve covers an area of over 8000ha and consists of open grasslands dotted with forest patches and swamp forests making it a unique landscape to experience. It forms part of the greater Pondoland Marine Protected Area and the Pondoland Centre of Endemism, making it one of the most important centres of plant diversity and endemism in Africa. The reserve is managed by the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency (ECPTA) and accommodation bookings can be made through their website.

I have added a map here from the information we gathered on our trip as the map they provided isn’t very clear, it is not very detailed but gives you an idea of where the main points of interest are located

History

In 1922 people were moved out of the area and a leper colony with a hospital was established on 18 000 ha of rolling coastal grassland. When leprosy was cured, the facility became a TB hospital. In 1977 a provincial nature reserve was proclaimed in a third of the 18 000 ha. A land claim for the reserve, including the surrounding area, was lodged and granted in 2004 and the applicants were constituted as the Mkhambathi Land Trust (MLT), with the condition that Mkhambathi Nature Reserve be maintained as a reserve and co-managed with ECPTA. The reserve has remained in an untransformed state and there are few settlements in close proximity to it. The adjacent grassland areas are just as valuable in terms of biodiversity and there is a possibility that more land will be incorporated into the reserve in future. (https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/)

Vegetation

Some extremely important vegetation types are protected in Mkhambathi. Examples of the Pondoland-Ugu Sandstone Coastal Sourveld grasslands in this reserve are the only ones under formal conservation, while its Pondoland Scarp Forests are some of the most significant forests in South Africa. The false water-berry Rhynchocalyx lawsonioides and the endangered Pondo palm Jubaeopsis caffra are endemic to this area.

Things to Do

While you may want to relax, there is a lot to keep visitors busy including: fishing in designated areas (with a permit), swimming, mountain biking, birdwatching and self driving to see animals - a 4x4 is necessary especially in the rainy season. We did not have a 4x4 and made use of the game drive service which I highly recommend (enquire at reception for pricing). Most visitors enjoy hiking through the reserve especially along the coast and the trail from Mkhambathi Falls to Horseshoe Falls. There is no dangerous game which makes it safe to explore and we especially enjoyed swimming in the many rock pools - see video below.

Accommodation

When we visited the reserve several years ago, we stayed in GweGwe Rondawels which is an incredible location right at the foot of the ocean. People who visited Mkhambahti in the past would have fond memories of those huts. Apparently these rondawels have been demolished to make way for a new boutique hotel which is said to open in 2024. The current accommodation options are basic but functional cottages.

We loved visiting this reserve and would love to return again as there is a lot to explore!

2 x Stone Cottages while Cottage no.6 is an old house

Tips: Remember that is it is far away from everything with no cellphone signal so you really do relax, but that also means you need to plan well in advance and take everything that you may need. Perhaps the boutique lodge is up and running sometime this year and then you can stay there in luxury!

~ G.S

References:

https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/

https://visiteasterncape.co.za/parks/mkhambathi/

http://bookonline.ecpta.co.za/?q=node/45 - website to book accommodation

Bosjes

Bosjes is a truly amazing farm with immense beauty and we spent a lovely morning exploring the gardens and being inspired by the diversity and beauty of the South African landscape.

Bosjes is a privately owned family farm situated in the Breedekloof Valley and surrounded by the picturesque Waaihoek and Slanghoek mountains. It produces olives, wine, grapes, peaches and proteas. The farm has several attractions including Bosjes kombuis, a contemporary restaurant with deli, tea garden and children’s play area as well as luxury accommodation and a Spa.

The chapel sits on the main axis of the gardens

The Chapel

The chapel is the focal point of the farm and is a dramatic yet serene icon. The white organic shape of the curving roof floats like a dove with its curving wings merging with the blue flowing hills in the far distance. There is an inscription in the pathway leading to the entrance of the chapel that reads “How precious, O God, is Your constant love! We find protection under the shadow of Your wings” from Psalm 36:7.

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The Gardens

The layout and landscape was designed by award winning landscape architecture firms and truly creates an experience of feeling part of the landscape. Every view and pause area throughout the gardens has been carefully considered and the journey through the beautiful fynbos brings one close to nature, feeling immersed in the landscape. The site has been designed so that views of the surrounding mountains are always part of the experience. You are constantly aware of, and in connection with, the immediate and greater landscape of the valley.

A meandering walk up a small mound leads you to a look out point and seating area where you can appreciate the length of the site as well as the surrounding views. A water feature where you can walk through two banks of cascading water allows for an immersive and poetic experience of ‘walking through water’ or spiritual baptism.

Water Feature

The gardens consist of a predominantly locally indigenous and endemic plant palette although several plants have been included for their Biblical reference and these have sign boards providing  the verse in the Bible where they are mentioned.

Plants with a Biblical reference are sign posted with relevant scripture

There are several garden rooms to explore so make sure you allow enough time to fully enjoy this farm!

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The Botha’s Halte Primary School

The Bosjes Trust was conceived by the owners as a tool for social investment. It was established with a vision to create employment and secure a future for the children of the valley. One of the projects, together with the Department of Education, includes the redevelopment of an adjoining school that one can see when entering at the main gate. (https://bosjes.co.za/care/)

We had a wonderful time exploring the gardens and appreciating the beauty of a well designed landscape and our South African culture, heritage and fauna.

See Bosjes Website for more information: https://bosjes.co.za/gardens/

Note that no outside food or pets are allowed onto the grounds.

Dylan Lewis Sculpture Park

The Dylan Lewis Sculpture Park is situated outside Stellenbosch in the Cape and is a remarkable display of artistic genius. The artist uses the landscape to compliment the artworks and create an immersive experience for the visitor. Visits to the Sculpture Park are by appointment only (see contact details below).

About the Artist

Dylan Lewis is an internationally acclaimed South African sculptor, best known for his metal sculptures of large cats. His international career spans two decades and includes exhibitions in Paris, Sydney, Toronto, Houston and San Francisco, as well as numerous one-man exhibitions in London, where he is among the few living artists to have held solo auctions at Christie’s London.The leopard was his primary subject and he spent much time studying them, even dissecting them to further study their anatomy. The sculpture garden displays both his big cat and animal sculptures as well as his more recent work depicting human form and more abstract representations.

About the Garden

Mulberry farm had been Dylan’s studio since 1993 it was in 2009 that is started taking shape into the sculpture garden it is today. He hired an excavator to create a level play area for his children and began shaping the land much like he would begin creating a sculpture. For two years the earth was shaped with earth-moving equipment to create the ponds, hills and depressions that characterize the space. In March 2017 the Dylan Lewis Sculpture Park was officially opened.

The garden is filled with spaces that are each unique and have their own character and mood. Certain spots are intimate and secluded, others expansive. The garden has been intuitively designed to create a sensory experience and every element, from sculpture to boulder, has been placed with great care. The paths were laid out over many years with great attention to detail and every bend, contour and viewpoint has been taken into consideration. The artist has recommended a specific route for visitors to walk (indicated on the map you receive on arrival) in order to pass sculptures in a way that enhances their movement and presents certain views in the sequence he has envisioned.

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Planting

The planting is an artwork in itself and the plant palette is used in a way to add beauty to the spaces and define the different areas. Vegetation is predominantly fynbos which is local to the Cape and several species were sourced from Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Retios dominate where the earth has been shaped to create dams and waterways while other areas are covered with area specific planting. An impressive total of 32 Erica species are listed on the plant list while 15 Pelargonium species have also been used. (See Plant List Below)

Fiona Powrie, an indigenous plant consultant oversees the garden botanically has ensured that an almost completely indigenous plant palette is used. The exotic species on site are reminders of a layer of historical planting.

The beauty of this sculpture park is that in every season there will be interest provided, not only by the variety of different indigenous flowering species, but from shape, form, texture, composition, experience, and the impressive backdrop of the mountains and their reflection in the water.

Water

The garden’s four sources of water are a natural perennial spring, a seasonal mountain river, a borehole and agricultural water. These provide water to the different ponds and wetlands as well as the large lake in the centre of the garden. The stepping stones over water are symbolic of the passage into mythical space.

An incredibly beautiful space to visit with nature as the canvas for this artist’s creations.

Contact Details

https://dylanlewis.com/

Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden: reservations@dylanart.co.za

Tel: +27 (0)21 880 0054
Fax: +27 (0)21 880 0588

Dylan Lewis Studio and Sculpture Garden, Mulberry Farm, Paradyskloof Road, Stellenbosch, 7600, South Africa

Plant Checklist can be obtained from the Sculpture Park

Melville Koppies

Like many people who have lived in Johannesburg for many years (some even their whole lives!) I had never visited the nature reserve in the heart of Johannesburg.

I had heard so much about it - the beautiful views, the amazing birdlife (over 200 spp), the incredible flora and the rich history that this nature reserve held so I was so excited to finally visit it. I met with a group of friends in the Marks Park Sport Club parking lot off Judith Road and we crossed carefully to enter the Main Gates framed by stone walls.

The reserve has recently changed its opening times to every Sunday morning from 8 to 11.30am. Visitors are welcomed on arrival by volunteers and given a map so that they can explore the trails at their own pace. The cost is R80 per adult and R40 per child and all proceeds are used towards the maintenance of the Park. Guided tours for small groups can be arranged.

The Central section was proclaimed a nature reserve in 1959 and is a declared national heritage site. The 50ha area can be explored through pathways and there are information boards detailing the heritage and history of the area as well as the fauna and flora to be found there.

The reserve is made up of three sections namely Melville Koppies Central, Melville Koppies East and Melville Koppies West. The East and West sections are open public space and access is not controlled. The East side is only 10ha in size and is frequented by dog walkers while the West section is 100ha large and borders the Westpark Cemetery. There are security issues here so it is advisable to only hike in groups with security. I was surprised to see security guards actively patrolling the nature reserve (Central) when we visited on Sunday and this really added to a sense of safety which is always a concern when visiting public spaces in Johannesburg.

Map from the Melville Koppies Website (www.mk.org.za/mkcal.htm)

Map of Melville Koppies Central Walking Paths

More information on the geology of the reserve can be found on their website www.mk.org.za

Vegetation

The vegetation of the Koppies is entirely indigenous and is a remarkable example of the richness of highveld grasses, flowers, and trees so close to a city centre. The variety of the flora can be seen in the 500 identified species within the eight undisturbed plant communities that have been identified. There are also 56 species of grass recorded and the dominant trees include Acacia robusta, Acacia caffra, Euclea crispa (Blue Guarri), Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Brachylaena rotundata and (Mountain Silver-oak). The Protea caffra and Mundelea sericea (Corkbush) were also lovely to see.

Along the western boundary where the Westdene Spruit flows a beautiful riverine forest can be found with large Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Combretum erythrophyllum (River Bushwillows), Olea europea (Wild Olive), and Kiggelaria africana (Wild Peach). The trees were planted in the 1960s to show people how beautiful our indigenous trees are. This part of the reserve is known as the Arboretum and was a highlight for me - the flowing water is calming and the trees beautiful and shady.

Water

This stream, the Westdene Spruit, is one of the many streams flowing north from the Witwatersrand watershed. Among them are the Braamfontein Spruit and the Jukskei, and they all eventually join the Limpopo River, which enters the Indian Ocean at Xai-Xai in Mozambique.

History

Melville Koppies carries evidence of ancient hunter-gatherers, early farmers as well as the first iron-age miners of the Witwatersrand. In 1989 Professor R J Mason published a "Guide to Archaeology Sites: Johannesburg". The purpose of the paper was as much to inform and educate the public as to make a plea for greater awareness of the heritage we are losing.

He identified seven archaeological sites on what we call Melville Koppies Central: African Iron Furnace Models; A second Tswana Iron Furnace; Tswana hut floor and pottery - 300 years old; 1880s gold prospecting; 1900s gun emplacement and Early 1900s quarries. There are information boards and examples of some of the tools and implements on display at the lecture hall.

The fascinating history of how the original Braamfontein farm passed to Louw Geldenhuis during the gold rush in 1886 and how the northern suburbs evolved out of this can also be viewed on an information board at the lecture hall.

Volunteers

The nature reserve would not be what it is today without the involvement of passionate and dedicated volunteers. The Melville Koppies Management Committee works hard to maintain the paths, control alien invasive vegetation, pick up litter and control illegal access to maintain the reserve on an ongoing basis. They also are always looking for ways to raise money for the reserve so that the salaries of the staff they employ can be paid as well as the additional security they hire.

Richard Hall devoted over 25 years to the maintenance of Melville Koppies and together with David Mpilo, a Council worker they tackled projects of cleaning, weeding and restoring the reserve. Wendy Carstens began to work with Richard Hall from 1997 and is still actively involved today. She received the honorary Ellen Kuzwayo award from the University of Johannesburg for ‘Her commitment to conservation and tourism at Melville Koppies’.

How can you help

You can help firstly by visiting (have you?) and also by making donations to Melville Koppies (bank details on their website) or by registering them as a MySchoolMyVillageMyPlanet beneficiary.

Contact Wendy Carstens wendavid@mweb.co.za for further information. www.mk.org.za

We loved our time spent at Melville Koppies and will definitely be back again! Thank you to all those involved in the upkeep and running of this historical and ecological gem.

Discovering The Wilds, a Historical Park in Johannesburg

Kudu Sculpture with View of Telkom Tower from The Wilds

I had heard rumours about a beautiful outdoor space in Johannesburg called The Wilds but it was shrouded in mystery and even the name made me imagine an overgrown and slightly dangerous place to visit, naturally making me a bit apprehensive to go there. When I eventually did visit I was completely taken aback by the beauty and history of this Park. I was captivated by the winding stone paths, the incredible views, the amazing selection of indigenous plants and the artworks that brought such an element of fun and wonder.

Location

The Wilds is located on Houghton Drive, Houghton and is situated on the Parktown Ridge. It consists of two parts, East and West, and is connected by a bridge over Houghton Drive. The West is more park-like and popular amoung visitors, especially the Giraffe Lawn area while the East is recommended to walk in Groups.

Map of the Park at Main Entrance

History

The Park, like Zoo Lake and the Johannesburg Zoo, was a corporate gift to the citizens of Johannesburg. In 1924 the Johannesburg Consolidated Investment Company (JCI) donated the land, on condition that it remained in its natural state and open to the public. Once it was completed in 1938 it was opened to the public. In 1968 the JCI again donated to the park in the form of four greenhouses. It was declared a national monument in 1981.

In the 1980s and 1990s it was hit by crime and people stopped visiting. The park became forgotten and overgrown. In the early 2000s the park was fenced off and a resident named TJ de Klerk tried to revive it by taking people on guided walks on both sides of the park. See more about the rejuvenation of the Park further below, but let’s first look at its physical features:

Vegetation

The trees are incredible – massive Yellowwoods, Lavender Trees, Fever Trees, White Stinkwoods, Cabbage Trees, Olive Trees and a stunning assortment of Cycads and Aloes. The beds below the trees are filled with indigenous groundcovers and I saw plants on display that are seldom seen elsewhere (E.g Pycnostachys urticifolia). This collection of plants has developed over the years as supporters have donated plants and a large donation was made after the Empire Exhibition in 1936 when the Golden Jubilee (50th anniversary) of Johannesburg was celebrated.

Pathways

The winding pathways and staircases (over 8km) are made out of natural packed stone and these create a delightful maze to explore and discover. There is good signage that ensures you don’t get lost and also a map at the entrance to orientate yourself when first arriving. We naturally made our way up through the park, following the paths to the highest point of the park where the sundial is located and the views are panoramic.

Can you spot the Owls? There are 67

Beautiful Stone Pathways

Benches for resting and clear Signage

Sundial

The sundial was created and installed by sundial maker Malcolm Barnfield and stonemason Dave Baguley in 2005 and is inscribed with the words “I only count the sunny hours”. The message around the base of the dial reads “Blessed too is he who learned to know the God of The Wilds” which was previously depicted on a plaque commemorating the words spoken by Jan Smuts. When Smuts died in 1950 The Wilds was dedicated to his memory. (Davie, L. A journey through Johannesburg’s Parks, Cemeteries and Zoo. 2014. JHB City Parks and Zoo)

Sculpture

One of the highlights of The Park must certainly be the striking steel sculptures  (mostly animals) made by artist James Delaney who has also been instrumental in transforming and rejuvenating the park (See Rejuvenation below). The first installation took place in 2017 as a means of drawing people’s attention to the park. As it was close to Mandela Day, he chose to design 67 owl sculptures that would hang high in the forest and these are a delight to find for young and old alike.  Delaney explains that the sculptures start as charcoal sketches which are then laser cut from steel and painted or powder coated. The pink and yellow giraffe, located on the large bottom lawn area is life size and visible from the main road running past the park. According to Delaney this was a deliberate intervention to draw people’s attention to this once neglected space. The sculpture installations in the park won an award from BASA (Business Arts South Africa) in 2018. (https://www.delaney.co.za/outdoor-sculpture/)

Giraffe Lawn in the late afternoon with visitors picnicking

Bush Baby Forest

Views

The park offers views of Hillbrow, Berea and the inner city. This includes views of several Johannesburg landmarks, including Ponte City Apartments, The Hillbrow Tower, St. Johns School for Boys, Roedean School for Girls, and many mansions in the suburb of Houghton. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wilds_Municipal_Nature_Reserve)

Rejuvenation

It has only been in the last few years that the Park has been fully revived and people feel safe enough to return. This has largely been brought about by artist James Delaney who has spent a considerable amount of time and money on generating funding and gaining support for the Park. He received an AfriSam-SAIA Award for his work in raising over R100 000 but this is just one of the many interventions he has championed. It is inspiring to read his story and how he became involved.

Here is an excerpt taken directly from his website where he details the history of his involvement and the progress made: (taken from https://www.delaney.co.za/installations/my-story-of-the-wilds/)

“Here are some highlights of the work that’s been achieved with my team, with volunteers and with the City Parks Wilds staff on the ground;

• Restoration of 80 park benches, repainting them in bold colours on volunteer days, with donated paint and tools.

• A mini library was donated for the entrance, from which people borrow or take books. It’s become really well used, especially by kids from the inner city.

• Negotiation with Roedean School to take down their stone wall, which had become unstable, and replaced with a fence, and the stone donated to The Wilds.

• Construction of the circular entrance area with seating, designed by Martine de la Harpe and built by JJ with the Roedean stone. This used to an eroded slope of dirt, a depressing welcome to the park. This was sponsored by Hollard, whose Villa Arcadia head office shares the same ridge as The Wilds, and they have done considerable indigenous planting to restore their landscape.

• Sealing the ponds and the installation of a pump which draws water discarded by Gautrain (they pump millions of litres out of their tunnels into the underground river). This water now flows beautifully though the lower ponds, and back into the river. This system was developed and installed by YPO, and opened by the Mayor. (YPO also got the upper ponds and waterfalls working for a while, but we’re waiting for City Parks to install a new pump for that system.)

• Mulching of flowerbeds. City Parks always used to take leaves to the dump, but I eventually convinced them to layer them on flowerbeds to protect the soil. They still won’t allow us to make compost.

• Design and installation of 100 items of signage throughout the park, thanks again to Hollard – directional, rules, information and welcome signage. Because City Parks has dated and unfriendly signage design, I redesigned a whole signage template for them. Most of the new signs are mounted onto a recycled plastic product.

• Huge weeding, every summer, which has broken the seed cycle of blackjacks and khakibos in most of the West Wilds (we have a long way to go in the East Wilds).

• Restoration of the hillside where the sundial is, including replanting indigenous grasses and aloes and removing all the nasty rusted wire fencing.

• Resurfacing of the carpark and internal road, and painting the pedestrian bridge (done by JRA, but I lobbied for it).

• Repairs to broken and missing pieces of fence, especially on the East Wilds (which is an ongoing job).

• Installation of fencing along Munro Drive, to complete the fencing of the entire perimeter of the park.

• A friend of The Wilds replaced the decrepit security hut, with a new structure which was warmer and nicer for the guards.

• Regular “Walk n Talk” sessions where visitors are led around the park in conversation with interesting people.

• Several weekly exercise classes on the lawns, run by various people who love outdoor training.

• Corporate events, weddings, small events and school tours have become a regular occurrence, providing an income stream to the city (unfortunately this doesn’t directly benefit The Wilds). They must be booked via City Parks, but when organisers approach me, I always ask them to add an element of giving back to the park, usually through volunteer work.

• Moving large aloes from locations where they are in too much shade (they start rotting) into the sun.

• Collecting cuttings for the nursery, which now has several thousand plants, particularly succulents. This has been an ongoing job benefiting from dozens of volunteer hands.

• Restoration of the abandoned compost area with the Rosebank Scouts.

• Large new flowerbeds around Giraffe Lawn, and repairing the little bridge, now adorned with crocheted flowers by local artist Curious Sleuth.

• Other artists are making their mark too; there was a land art project, and Gordon Froud’s sculpture installation, made from orange beacons, stands on the East Wilds.

• Planting indigenous trees. Volunteers have started labeling them too. We now also plant along the streets surrounding the park, to extend the forest canopy.

• Clean-up of the climbing wall, which is now regularly used.

• Clearing of invasive alien trees on the edges of both the East and West Wilds.

• Lining several kilometres of pathways with stones, to prevent damage to the plants on the edges.

• Restoration of 4 drinking fountains, broken for decades. Local mosaic artists are making beautiful detailing.

• The Munro Centenary Gates, which I drew using aloes as a motif which now stand on the Munro Drive side. Look carefully for the owls and mouse…

As the sculptures became popular, I used them to open up sections of the park that people weren’t visiting – they became destinations within the park, allowing people to walk further and spend more time exploring. There are now 100 sculptures – monkeys, a pangolin, ostriches, the red kudu family, klipspringers, duiker and more.

The largest is a 5 metre high pink and yellow giraffe, on what is now known as Giraffe Lawn. This was an important landmark piece as it is visible from the road, drawing the attention of passers-by. I crowdfunded to pay for the materials, which were considerable – it’s so heavy it had to be installed using a crane, and we had to bring a concrete mixer down narrow stone paths to lay the large block of concrete below ground to support it.” Read more on his website

How can you make a difference

Every person can make a difference in this life. We are all uniquely situated with unique talents and abilities. If we look back over the history of this park we see demonstrations of generosity where people have given land, time, money, plants, energy and love. The Wilds is a Park layered with history, memory and natural beauty. Fortunately for the citizens of Johannesburg James Delaney got a dog and needed a place to walk him and through his efforts over these recent years we can again experience this remarkable space. Where can you make a contribution to a park, an organisation or initiative to make a difference in your community?