Montagu Herb Festival

We visited the quaint town of Monatgu in the Western Cape over the Heritage day weekend in September this year. Montagu is situated in the Breede River Valley at the foot of the majestic Langeberg mountains and surrounded by beautiful fynbos vegetation, lush vineyards and fruit orchards. It is known for its location on the famous Route 62 and for the numerous outdoor activities on offer including hiking, rock climbing and mountain biking. Interestingly Montagu boasts the most number of national monuments in one street than any other town in the country and the town has a rich cultural and architectural history.

 While the main aim of our visit was to have a relaxing getaway (i.e. fun-filled girls weekend) in a beautiful part of the country, we discovered much to our delight, that it serendipitously coincided with the annual Montagu Herb Festival or Kruiefees.

Exploring Montagu

Doing the Scavenger Hike by Bike!

The Herb Festival is in it’s 4th year of existence and is organised by the Montagu Museum which has a long standing history of documenting knowledge about medicinal plants. Since I love all things botanical this was an event I was so excited to experience and I thoroughly enjoyed it. The festival included: exhibitions, cooking demos, workshops, plant discovery walks and enlightening talks on medicinal herbs, mushrooms, and healing traditions.

The Fynbos Healing Plant Discovery Walk was on Sunday morning

I thoroughly enjoyed learning more about the local flora on the Fynbos walk with Liana Muller from Fijn Botanicals. She shared on the medicinal and healing properties of the plants in the area that she uses to create Botanical perfumes, creams and other skin products.

Liana Jansen from Fijn Botanicals sharing her knowledge about the Fynbos plants she uses in her products

We also enjoyed the Herb Walk in the Montagu Nature Garden with curator Hugo de Wet and Patti van Dyk. The Nature Garden is an indigenous wildflower reserve with plants of the Klein Karoo and contains numerous walking trails which offer lovely views of the town below as you make your way up the hill.   

Hiking through the Montagu Nature Garden

Montagu Nature Garden

The exhibition at the Montagu Museum consisted of companies that make use of botanical products and included the following: Canna Gold, Chivas Oils, Dagga Farmacy, Earthwell Pet Products, Eporia, Fell Flora, Fijn Botanicals, Folio Books, Gentle Rain Traditional Healing, Greyton Candles, Grow Folk, Indikaap, Karoo Mantis, Khoe Cure, Montagu Museum Herbs, Shop@Yamu Botanicals and Therapeutic Naturals.

See image of Herb Festival Program for 2024:

 I had just walked through fynbos for a few hours - studying and learning about the medicinal plants of this region - so when I saw dried plants in jars on the table of Khoe Cure I wanted to try them out for myself. I bought their Herbal Tonic which contains the following plants: Sutherlandia frutescens, Artemesia afra, Dicoma capensis, Lobostemon fruticosus, Agathosma, Aucalyptus globulus, Bulbine natalensis, Hypoxis hemerocallidea, Tulbaghia violacea, Chrysocoma ciliata, Cissampelos, Clychrrhiza glabra and Cannabis. The tonic has a strong garlic taste from the Tulbaghia violacea, which makes it a bit hard to swallow, but Megan suggested I mix it with tonic water and that has definitely helped.

While there are certainly many beautiful accommodation options in the area I highly recommend the self-catering cottage we stayed in called Exhale Cottage. The cottage is well equipped and in the most breathtakingly beautiful location. The hosts were incredibly gracious and generous and went out of their way to make our stay unforgettable. Here are some pics of our accommodation:

We had a really memorable weekend!

Montagu's Herb Festival is a must-visit for anyone who is interested in medicinal plants or who just wants to enjoy the beautiful scenery and relaxed atmosphere of this charming town.

Some reference links: 

https://montagumuseum.co.za/

https://www.sahistory.org.za/place/montagu-route-62

https://www.south-africa-info.co.za/country/town/227/montagu

Mapungubwe National Park

For several years I have wanted to visit Mapungubwe National Park, but it was always a bit far (5 hours from Johannesburg) and I was worried about Malaria for my young children. This year we made it happen and visited in May which was surprisingly warm and we were really taken aback by the incredible beauty of this park.

Location

Mapungubwe is located on the border between South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana. It is on the South African side of the confluence between the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers. The reserve is actually bisected into two parts - the Eastern and Western Sections - with private land in between. It also forms part of a greater reserve that extends into the neighbouring countries called the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area.

Maps from SANParks website

History

“In December 1932, Ernst van Graan, his son Jerry and three other men searched the farm Greefswald, where both Mapungubwe and K2 are located, for a sacred hill rumoured to hold the treasure of kings. Arriving eventually at the steep-sided and seemingly unscaleable hill, a local man, known only as Mowena, reluctantly pointed the way to a narrow path well concealed in a cleft in the rock. Reaching the top of the hill, the men found remnants of stone walls and large quantities of potsherds, some iron tools and copper and glass beads scattered on the ground. They returned the next day with spades and soon unearthed ancient graves, three which were different and probably belonged to royalty.”

Several graves were uncovered including precious artefacts such as a golden bowl, scepter and the famous golden rhino. The Golden Rhino has become a symbol for Mapungubwe.

Architecture

I first heard about Mapungubwe while studying at the University of Pretoria when architect Peter Rich came to give a guest lecture on his award-winning Interpretive Centre. The visuals he showed stuck in my mind - brick vaulted domes clad in sandstone. I really wanted to visit this building. He explained how unemployed people from the local community were trained in making the clay tiles and in the tile-vaulting construction technique.

The Mapungubwe Interpretive Centre functions as a museum and holds a smallish collection of artefacts with historical information on the story of Mapungubwe. (Note that Museum entrance needs to be paid at Reception, a short drive away). There is also a cafeteria and small curio shop.

The architect clearly intended the experience of the museum to include exiting the building and walking on the rocky mesa to overlook the dramatic landscape below. Unfortunately, there is not even a signpost to indicate that you should go on the short walk to see this incredible view, so if you visit make sure that find a small dirt track from the cafeteria to the top of the hill.

link to architect’s page: https://www.peterricharchitects.com/mapungubwe-interpretation-centre

Cultural Landscape

The Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape has been occupied by diverse peoples over thousands of years. It demonstrates the rise and fall of the first powerful indigenous kingdom in Southern Africa between 900 and 1,300 AD and laid the foundation for subsequent settlement patterns in the region. In the 21st century Mapungubwe has been embraced as a site of significance by South Africans as well as the international community. The Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape (MCL) was declared as a National Heritage Site in 2001 and it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2003.

The MCL was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2003 because it is believed to be of outstanding universal value for the following reasons:

• The MCL contains evidence for an important interchange of human values that led to far-reaching cultural and social changes in southern Africa between AD 900 and 1300.

• The remains in the MCL are a remarkably complete testimony to the growth and subsequent decline of the Mapungubwe State which at its height was the largest kingdom on the African subcontinent.

• The establishment of Mapungubwe as a powerful state trading through the East African ports with Arabia and India was a significant stage in the history of the African sub-continent.

• The remains in the MCL graphically illustrate the impact of climate change and record the growth, and then decline, of the Kingdom of Mapungubwe as a clear record of a culture that became vulnerable to irreversible change.

Take the time to contemplate the landscape. Marvel at the wonder of Nature and the layers of memory and history in this place.

Vegetation

The Park comprises Subtropical Alluvial Vegetation, Musina Mopane Bushveld and Limpopo Ridge Bushveld vegetation types. The Mopani trees were particularly striking when we visited - all golden shades of yellow, orange and red and I also loved the Large Leaved Rock Figs (Ficus abutilifolia) clinging to the dramatic rock formations. But the highlight for me must be the magnificent Baobabs (Adansonia digitata). They are so enormous that you can’t help be in awe of them. They are even more dramatic without leaves and their grey bark almost shimmers like a snake’s skin in the sunlight. The Park has tried to protect many of the larger trees with a type of wire mesh wrapped around the trunk to protect the trees from elephants.

Geology

The landscape is really poetic. I wanted to do some research on the geology of the area and found this incerpt in the Integrated Management Plan for the period of 2019 - 2028, prepared by Dr Andre Spies, found on the SANParks website: “The park comprises of an attractive semi-arid landscape with varying geological structures and formations, including extremely old Archaean rocks, metamorphics of intermediate age, karoo sandstone / conglomerate uplands that are about 200 million years old, and recent alluvium and sands. Kimberlites about 100 million years old are found in the region, which explains the existence of a large diamond mine at Venetia, about 50 km south of the park boundary. ” (https://www.sanparks.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/integrated-management-plan-3.pdf)

Animals & Birds

We saw lovely general game in Mapungubwe. My kids enjoyed seeing Spring Hares for the first time!

Birdlife is abundant and there are some amazing specials that can be found here. I really wanted to see Pel’s Fishing Owl, this bird attracts many birding fanatics countrywide, but unfortunately I did not see it. I did see Meyer’s Parrot and Meve’s (Longtailed) Starling for the first time. This place is a Birder’s Paradise!

Giraffe in Leokwe Rest Camp

Accommodation

There are several accommodation options available at Mapungubwe National Park: Well equipped Chalets at Leokwe Camp; Tented huts at Limpopo Forest Tented Camp; Campsites at Mazhou Campsite; Tshugulu Lodge caters for larger groups and also there are also cabins at Vhembe Wilderness Camp. I have only stayed at Leokwe Rest Camp so unfortunately can’t give more information about the other options. Our rondawel at Leokwe was very spacious and we loved braaiing on the patio with a beautiful view over the indigenous bush. The camp is not fenced off so animals roam freely but I believe there are not a lot of lions in the reserve, but even so they ask you to refrain from walking in the camp after nightfall.

View of Leokwe Camp from Pool Area

Pool at Leokwe Rest Camp

For bookings go to SANParks website

References:

• SANParks website - Mapungubwe National Park – SANParks https://www.sanparks.org/parks/mapungubwe

• Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site Integrated Management Plan, 2019 - 2028, by Andre Spies, Integrated Management Plan

• MAPUNGUBWE NATIONAL PARK AND WHS Heritage and Palaeontological Impact Assessment for the Overnight Youth Facility (Dormitories) & Mapungubwe Valley Orientation Centres January 2020, by Stephan Gaigher, Heritage Impact Assessment

• https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1099/
  

Doornkop Fish & Wildlife Reserve

Friends of ours introduced us to Doornkop Nature Reserve which is situated between Carolina and Mashadodorp in Mpumalanga. It was the ideal location for us to spend a few nights on route to Nelspruit in December. I was really impressed with the accommodation (there are several homes available to rent on AirBnB) and the estate facilities on offer. The clubhouse has a small shop, tennis courts, a games room with pool table and wonderful swimming pool. There is beautiful wildlife to be seen, amazing bird life and stunning vegetation to explore. I loved this place and will definitely go back! Their website is very comprehensive, and you will find a lot of detail about the reserve there: https://doornkopresort.co.za/

There are many hiking trails and mountain bike routes on offer. We enjoyed hiking to a beautiful waterfall which even the kids managed. The reserve also offers special activities for kids during holiday seasons, and we took our kids to free horse-riding lessons which they loved. There were other activities on offer so you can join in organised events or just relax and enjoy the surrounding beauty.

Pony rides for kids at Doornkop

Dung beetles near the horses paddocks

We saw these beautiful cows on the way to the reserve and I had to stop and photograph them!

~ G.S

Mkhambathi Nature Reserve

It is undeniable that South Africa is filled with incredible nature destinations, and I love visiting them and discovering the beauty that our country holds. One of these destinations is a hidden gem called Mkhambathi Nature Reserve in the Eastern Cape.

location

Mkhambathi Nature Reserve is situated on the coast between Port Edward and Port St Johns and while it is an effort to get there it is definitely worth it. The roads to get there are riddled with potholes and the 40km dirt road stretch from Flagstaff can be challenging. The reserve is bounded by two rivers, the Mtentu to the north and Msikaba to the south.

Information

The reserve covers an area of over 8000ha and consists of open grasslands dotted with forest patches and swamp forests making it a unique landscape to experience. It forms part of the greater Pondoland Marine Protected Area and the Pondoland Centre of Endemism, making it one of the most important centres of plant diversity and endemism in Africa. The reserve is managed by the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency (ECPTA) and accommodation bookings can be made through their website.

I have added a map here from the information we gathered on our trip as the map they provided isn’t very clear, it is not very detailed but gives you an idea of where the main points of interest are located

History

In 1922 people were moved out of the area and a leper colony with a hospital was established on 18 000 ha of rolling coastal grassland. When leprosy was cured, the facility became a TB hospital. In 1977 a provincial nature reserve was proclaimed in a third of the 18 000 ha. A land claim for the reserve, including the surrounding area, was lodged and granted in 2004 and the applicants were constituted as the Mkhambathi Land Trust (MLT), with the condition that Mkhambathi Nature Reserve be maintained as a reserve and co-managed with ECPTA. The reserve has remained in an untransformed state and there are few settlements in close proximity to it. The adjacent grassland areas are just as valuable in terms of biodiversity and there is a possibility that more land will be incorporated into the reserve in future. (https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/)

Vegetation

Some extremely important vegetation types are protected in Mkhambathi. Examples of the Pondoland-Ugu Sandstone Coastal Sourveld grasslands in this reserve are the only ones under formal conservation, while its Pondoland Scarp Forests are some of the most significant forests in South Africa. The false water-berry Rhynchocalyx lawsonioides and the endangered Pondo palm Jubaeopsis caffra are endemic to this area.

Things to Do

While you may want to relax, there is a lot to keep visitors busy including: fishing in designated areas (with a permit), swimming, mountain biking, birdwatching and self driving to see animals - a 4x4 is necessary especially in the rainy season. We did not have a 4x4 and made use of the game drive service which I highly recommend (enquire at reception for pricing). Most visitors enjoy hiking through the reserve especially along the coast and the trail from Mkhambathi Falls to Horseshoe Falls. There is no dangerous game which makes it safe to explore and we especially enjoyed swimming in the many rock pools - see video below.

Accommodation

When we visited the reserve several years ago, we stayed in GweGwe Rondawels which is an incredible location right at the foot of the ocean. People who visited Mkhambahti in the past would have fond memories of those huts. Apparently these rondawels have been demolished to make way for a new boutique hotel which is said to open in 2024. The current accommodation options are basic but functional cottages.

We loved visiting this reserve and would love to return again as there is a lot to explore!

2 x Stone Cottages while Cottage no.6 is an old house

Tips: Remember that is it is far away from everything with no cellphone signal so you really do relax, but that also means you need to plan well in advance and take everything that you may need. Perhaps the boutique lodge is up and running sometime this year and then you can stay there in luxury!

~ G.S

References:

https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/

https://visiteasterncape.co.za/parks/mkhambathi/

http://bookonline.ecpta.co.za/?q=node/45 - website to book accommodation

Chicago (3 of 3) - ARCHITECTURE

The blue sky reflects off glass skyscrapers in the city of Chicago where beautiful buildings can be seen

One of the main reasons I wanted to visit the Windy City was to experience the architecture and see the work of many of the architects I learnt about in my studies, including: Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Phillip Johnson, Frank Lloyd Wright and Louis Sullivan. I did both a walking architecture tour and the very popular architecture river cruise - both were very informative, although I feel like I only scratched the surface, there are many layers to uncover in this city. Buildings from several architectural styles were highlighted: classical, modern, post-modern, brutalist, art deco and the tour guides did a great job of going into detail and explaining certain highlights of several of the buildings.

It seems the city had a second chance to rebuild itself after the Great Fire of 1871 and it was interesting to look back on the history of the city and see how it has developed over time.

Robie House

Possibly one of the most famous architects to come out of Chicago is Frank Lloyd Wright known for fathering the Prairie Style. He designed many residential homes, his most iconic probably Falling Water, but according to the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust website “Robie House sparked a revolution in residential architecture that still reverberates today and is considered one of the most important buildings in architectural history. The house is a masterpiece of the Prairie style and a forerunner of modernism in architecture.”

Frederick C. Robie House by Frank Lloyd Wright, completed in 1910 and situated in Hyde Park, Chicago

The Rookery

One of the buildings I visited on the walking tour is known as ‘The Rookery’ and was designed by Daniel Burnham and John Root in 1888. The interior was remodelled in 1905 by Frank Lloyd Wright and the Insitute honouring his name is currently situated in the building.

One opinion is that the Ravens on the facade of the building resulted in it’s nickname ‘Rookery’

Interior of the Rookery with marble and gold leaf

190 South LaSalle Street

190 South La Salle Street is a beautiful example of a Post Modern building, designed by PHillip Johnson and John Burgee in 1987. While the outside of the building is nothing to write home about, the interior is opulent and the exaggerated scale is really something to behold.

Interior of office complex 190 South LaSalle with golden steps as interactive musical sculpture

The Marquette Building was also very noteworthy with it’s impressive Tiffany mosaic murals decorating the interior of the building as well as the dramatic Chicago Cultural Center. There is so much to discover, it was really memorable to explore.

A few more images of buildings below:

Further Reading:

https://www.flwright.org/tour/robie-house

https://cal.flwright.org/tour/rookery

https://www.architecture.org/learn/resources/buildings-of-chicago/building/190-south-lasalle/

https://gravelmag.com/famous-chicago-architects/

https://www.architectureadrenaline.com/famous-architects-in-chicago-20-of-the-greatest-designers-in-the-windy-city/

Chicago (2 of 3) - ART

Flamingo is a 16m tall steel Sculpture by Alexander Calder created in 1974. It was designed to offset the dark, minimalist, steel and glass building behind (designed by Ludwig by Mies van der Rohe) called the Dirksen Federal Building which was completed in 1964 and stands 45 stories tall.

I felt incredibly inspired by the Art I experienced in Chicago. I loved exploring the city and discovering public sculptures, both historic and modern (and taking sculpture selfies). Visiting the Art Institute of Chicago was really a highlight, although one day is not enough to see it all! It really is an incredible collection.

The Art Institute of Chicago was founded as both a museum and school for the fine arts in 1879, a critical era in the history of Chicago when resources were devoted to rebuilding the city after most of it had been destroyed by the Great Fire in 1871. The permanent collection contains nearly 300,000 works of art in fields ranging from Chinese bronzes to contemporary design and from textiles to installation art. Together, the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and the museum of the Art Institute of Chicago are now internationally recognized as two of the leading fine-arts institutions in the United States.

The Art Institute’s Mission is, “We collect, care for, and interpret works of art across time, cultures, geographies, and identities, centering the vision of artists and makers. We recognize that all art is made in a particular context, demanding continual, dynamic reconsideration in the present. We are a place of gathering; we foster the exchange of ideas and inspire an expansive, inclusive understanding of human creativity.”

If you visit the Art Institute don’t miss the very bottom floor which consists of The Thorne Miniature Rooms. They were created by Narcissa Niblack Thorne in the 1930s and 1940s, and they depict various historical interiors from Europe and America. The rooms are built on a scale of 1:12, and they are incredibly detailed, with miniature furniture, carpets, and even tiny books.

The Tiffany Window - Hartwell Memorial Window, 1917. Design attributed to Agnes F. Northrop for Tiffany Studios

Before visiting Chicago I had not heard of Tiffany Studios or seen his mosiac works. Louis Comfort Tiffany was an American artist who revolutionized the art of stained glass windows in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Although Tiffany’s name is associated with New York City, he had a strong association with Chicago. His association with the city began with the World’s Columbian Exposition in 1893, where his Byzantine-inspired chapel and ecclesiastical wares were an international sensation, winning him 54 medals. This led to many commissions in Chicago, which compelled him to open a satellite studio in the city.

Tiffany’s work can be seen at many places in Chicago, including stained glass windows at the Second Presbyterian Church, glass mosaic panels at the Marquette Building lobby, and the largest Tiffany dome at the Chicago Cultural Center. The Tiffany dome at Macy’s on State Street is the world’s largest example of an unbroken Tiffany favrile iridescent glass mosaic, covering over 500 square metres and containing 1.6 million pieces of glass. The process of creating this dome took one and a half years to complete with over 50 artisans working under the direct supervision of Mr Tiffany.

I don’t think the photos really do these mosaic dome artworks justice, it is hard to see the colour and detail in the photo.

Tiffany mosaic artwork depicting the history of Chicago in the Marquette Building

Chicago Cultural Centre

There are tons of things to see and experience in any large city. I love seeking out the layers of history which are normally intertwined with art and architecture. I was really surprised and inspired by the depth and beauty of the love of art found in Chicago.

~ G.S

Chicago (1 of 3) - ATMOSPHERE

In July this year I had an amazing opportunity to visit the United States of America for the first time. I travelled solo for the first part (Chicago) and then met up with a friend for the second part (Colorado). It was an incredible experience and I enjoyed every moment!

I realised that I have to write a three-part series on my visit as there is so much to say (and so many photos) - otherwise it will end up being a ten page blog!

Part 1 - Atmosphere

Part 2 - Architecture

Part 3 - Art

Lakeshore Trail stretches for miles along Lake Michigan and is used by pedestrians, cyclists and runners

Why Chicago?

I chose Chicago over New York City as it looked to be a destination for people interested in Architecture and the views over Lake Michigan always look so stunning. I had also listened to a landscape architecture lecture on the Chicago Riverwalk and how through successful landscape architecture and urban design intervention they had positively contributed to the city and created the connection between people and the water. (Something that is not very successful in South Africa)

The Chicago Riverwalk is a 1.5-mile-long promenade that revitalizes an underutilized industrial area into an active public space featuring restaurants, cultural activities, and amenities while reconnecting the Chicago River to the urban fabric of the city. The plaza, consisting of a terraced lawn, ramps, and a memorial, was designed in 2009 by Ross Barney architects. You can read more about the project here.

Chicago Riverwalk - a precedent study every landscape architect should see

Millenium Park

I also wanted to see the Bean :) And take a selfie with it (because some people call me Bean and so I feel a connection to it, call me crazy, or call me Bean). Apparently people get upset that it gets called The Bean and would prefer people to call it by its official name - Cloud Gate. Millenium Park is also a wonderful place for a landscape architect to visit. I loved Lurie Garden and the public and green spaces in the city are so well designed and maintained.

Crown Fountain - an interactive water feature in Millenium Park

Summer in Chicago

Chicago is known to have brutal winters so when summer comes Chicagoans make the most of the fine weather and spend as much time outdoors and on the Lake as they can. I visited in July when summer was in full swing so it really felt like there was a constant party vibe and I saw tons of gatherings and social events. It really appeared to me that the city took initiative in organising fun events and opportunities for the city to come alive. One such event was the market along State Street called Sundays on State. I also saw a rave concert at North Avenue Beach. The whole atmosphere of the city was fun and festive!

Cycling

I used the Divvy communal bike sharing system to get around and enjoyed the freedom of exploring this city at my own pace and saw and did whatever I felt like. The perks of solo travel! Cycling along the Lakefront Trail was really a highlight - stunning views of the Lake and the City.

There is so much to see in Chicago, I felt like I only scratched the surface after my few days there. I would highly recommend travelling there, especially if you love inspiring gardens, art and architecture!

See these Onion/ Chive like plants in the front of this picture - this is what is assumed to be where the name of the city is derived from. The name “Chicago” is derived from a Native American word. The generally accepted theory is that the name was derived from a Miami-Illinois word “shikaakwa” or the “smelly onion.” The Miami-Illinois Indians named natural landmarks after the plants found nearby. The area around the mouth of the Chicago River was known as “Shikaakwa” by the local population because smelly onions grew around the watershed. French explorers “Frenchified” the word and turned it into “Shecaugo” for their reference

Sculpture on the Riverwalk Promenade of ‘the Chive’ where the name Chicago originates

Until Part 2,

~G.S