Mapungubwe National Park

For several years I have wanted to visit Mapungubwe National Park, but it was always a bit far (5 hours from Johannesburg) and I was worried about Malaria for my young children. This year we made it happen and visited in May which was surprisingly warm and we were really taken aback by the incredible beauty of this park.

Location

Mapungubwe is located on the border between South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana. It is on the South African side of the confluence between the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers. The reserve is actually bisected into two parts - the Eastern and Western Sections - with private land in between. It also forms part of a greater reserve that extends into the neighbouring countries called the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area.

Maps from SANParks website

History

“In December 1932, Ernst van Graan, his son Jerry and three other men searched the farm Greefswald, where both Mapungubwe and K2 are located, for a sacred hill rumoured to hold the treasure of kings. Arriving eventually at the steep-sided and seemingly unscaleable hill, a local man, known only as Mowena, reluctantly pointed the way to a narrow path well concealed in a cleft in the rock. Reaching the top of the hill, the men found remnants of stone walls and large quantities of potsherds, some iron tools and copper and glass beads scattered on the ground. They returned the next day with spades and soon unearthed ancient graves, three which were different and probably belonged to royalty.”

Several graves were uncovered including precious artefacts such as a golden bowl, scepter and the famous golden rhino. The Golden Rhino has become a symbol for Mapungubwe.

Architecture

I first heard about Mapungubwe while studying at the University of Pretoria when architect Peter Rich came to give a guest lecture on his award-winning Interpretive Centre. The visuals he showed stuck in my mind - brick vaulted domes clad in sandstone. I really wanted to visit this building. He explained how unemployed people from the local community were trained in making the clay tiles and in the tile-vaulting construction technique.

The Mapungubwe Interpretive Centre functions as a museum and holds a smallish collection of artefacts with historical information on the story of Mapungubwe. (Note that Museum entrance needs to be paid at Reception, a short drive away). There is also a cafeteria and small curio shop.

The architect clearly intended the experience of the museum to include exiting the building and walking on the rocky mesa to overlook the dramatic landscape below. Unfortunately, there is not even a signpost to indicate that you should go on the short walk to see this incredible view, so if you visit make sure that find a small dirt track from the cafeteria to the top of the hill.

link to architect’s page: https://www.peterricharchitects.com/mapungubwe-interpretation-centre

Cultural Landscape

The Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape has been occupied by diverse peoples over thousands of years. It demonstrates the rise and fall of the first powerful indigenous kingdom in Southern Africa between 900 and 1,300 AD and laid the foundation for subsequent settlement patterns in the region. In the 21st century Mapungubwe has been embraced as a site of significance by South Africans as well as the international community. The Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape (MCL) was declared as a National Heritage Site in 2001 and it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2003.

The MCL was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2003 because it is believed to be of outstanding universal value for the following reasons:

• The MCL contains evidence for an important interchange of human values that led to far-reaching cultural and social changes in southern Africa between AD 900 and 1300.

• The remains in the MCL are a remarkably complete testimony to the growth and subsequent decline of the Mapungubwe State which at its height was the largest kingdom on the African subcontinent.

• The establishment of Mapungubwe as a powerful state trading through the East African ports with Arabia and India was a significant stage in the history of the African sub-continent.

• The remains in the MCL graphically illustrate the impact of climate change and record the growth, and then decline, of the Kingdom of Mapungubwe as a clear record of a culture that became vulnerable to irreversible change.

Take the time to contemplate the landscape. Marvel at the wonder of Nature and the layers of memory and history in this place.

Vegetation

The Park comprises Subtropical Alluvial Vegetation, Musina Mopane Bushveld and Limpopo Ridge Bushveld vegetation types. The Mopani trees were particularly striking when we visited - all golden shades of yellow, orange and red and I also loved the Large Leaved Rock Figs (Ficus abutilifolia) clinging to the dramatic rock formations. But the highlight for me must be the magnificent Baobabs (Adansonia digitata). They are so enormous that you can’t help be in awe of them. They are even more dramatic without leaves and their grey bark almost shimmers like a snake’s skin in the sunlight. The Park has tried to protect many of the larger trees with a type of wire mesh wrapped around the trunk to protect the trees from elephants.

Geology

The landscape is really poetic. I wanted to do some research on the geology of the area and found this incerpt in the Integrated Management Plan for the period of 2019 - 2028, prepared by Dr Andre Spies, found on the SANParks website: “The park comprises of an attractive semi-arid landscape with varying geological structures and formations, including extremely old Archaean rocks, metamorphics of intermediate age, karoo sandstone / conglomerate uplands that are about 200 million years old, and recent alluvium and sands. Kimberlites about 100 million years old are found in the region, which explains the existence of a large diamond mine at Venetia, about 50 km south of the park boundary. ” (https://www.sanparks.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/integrated-management-plan-3.pdf)

Animals & Birds

We saw lovely general game in Mapungubwe. My kids enjoyed seeing Spring Hares for the first time!

Birdlife is abundant and there are some amazing specials that can be found here. I really wanted to see Pel’s Fishing Owl, this bird attracts many birding fanatics countrywide, but unfortunately I did not see it. I did see Meyer’s Parrot and Meve’s (Longtailed) Starling for the first time. This place is a Birder’s Paradise!

Giraffe in Leokwe Rest Camp

Accommodation

There are several accommodation options available at Mapungubwe National Park: Well equipped Chalets at Leokwe Camp; Tented huts at Limpopo Forest Tented Camp; Campsites at Mazhou Campsite; Tshugulu Lodge caters for larger groups and also there are also cabins at Vhembe Wilderness Camp. I have only stayed at Leokwe Rest Camp so unfortunately can’t give more information about the other options. Our rondawel at Leokwe was very spacious and we loved braaiing on the patio with a beautiful view over the indigenous bush. The camp is not fenced off so animals roam freely but I believe there are not a lot of lions in the reserve, but even so they ask you to refrain from walking in the camp after nightfall.

View of Leokwe Camp from Pool Area

Pool at Leokwe Rest Camp

For bookings go to SANParks website

References:

• SANParks website - Mapungubwe National Park – SANParks https://www.sanparks.org/parks/mapungubwe

• Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site Integrated Management Plan, 2019 - 2028, by Andre Spies, Integrated Management Plan

• MAPUNGUBWE NATIONAL PARK AND WHS Heritage and Palaeontological Impact Assessment for the Overnight Youth Facility (Dormitories) & Mapungubwe Valley Orientation Centres January 2020, by Stephan Gaigher, Heritage Impact Assessment

• https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1099/
  

Benvie Gardens, Midlands

Tucked away along a dirt track in the mountains of Karkloof in the Midlands is a magical forest filled  with flowers and birdsong. The trees reach up to the sky and you feel as if you are transported to another world. It is a garden flowing with Azaleas, Hydrangeas, Camellias and other shade loving plants and the circular walk around its perimeter encourages you to come up close to these botanical beauties.

Trees

The garden is a generous 31 hectares in size and consists of a wide selection of species and impressive trees that make you feel very small because of their size and stature. If you contemplate the life of a tree and how stoic, steadfast and sure it stands for so many years (some of these trees are over a hundred years old) it makes you consider your life and its brevity. There is something very contemplative about spending time around these majestic monuments.

History

The founder John Geekie (1836- 1908) came from Dundee Scotland and settled in Pietermartizburg in 1860. He because a successful businessman and was able to realise his dream of recreating his garden in Scotland by purchasing the farm “Nooitgedacht”. He imported seeds, seedlings and plants from around the world. The imported stock travelled by boat to Durban Harbour and was then taken by rail to Merrivale before finally being driven by ox wagon up to Benvie.

Seeds and seedlings were imported from Howdens & Co in Inverness, Scotland while further seedlings of Conifer trees, Fruit trees and Hydrangeas came from Berkman’s Nursery in Georgia, USA. He received the nucleus stock of Azaleas, Camellias and Rhododendrons from the Botanical Gardens in Durban. During this time he requested the help of his relative Bill Marriott, who had worked at Kew Gardens, to assist him with the garden layout and planning. He began planting the garden around 1889 and it took him 6 years to establish. All trees were planted to the required distance apart to enable them to grow to their full capacity.

Birds

If you are a birdwatcher you may have already heard of this location as it is where the seldom spotted Orange Ground Thrush can be seen. Benvie has the most dense population of the Orange Ground Thrush in South Africa.

Visiting the Garden

The garden is open to the public for certain times of the year and the generous lawns allow for lovely picnics. It is best to call them ahead of the time to check if it is open. An entrance fee is charged (check for latest rates). The Rhododendron come into flower between October and December and this is an especially beautiful time to visit. The Clivias start flowering in the first week of September.

A signboard encased in glass depicts the history of the garden and even shows the receipt for some of the plants purchased. Maintenance is an ongoing process and includes collecting seeds and propagating them from the existing trees in the garden and replanting when older trees are removed. The property is still maintained by the Geekie family with the 6th generation now enjoying their time at Benvie.

This garden is a delight for anyone who appreciates botanical beauty and is definitely something to put on your list of places to visit! ~ G.S.

Contact: John and Jenny Robinson 082 443 3805

Facebook: @BenvieOpenGarden

Directions from the N3 at Howick:

Take either the Midmar Dam or Tweedie turnoff. Both these roads lead to Howick. Travel along Main Street through Howick until you reach the Rietvlei/Karkloof Road. Continue on tar until road becomes gravel. Your next landmark will be the Mbona gate on your right. Carry straight on as you wind up the hill. Look for the 32 km stone. Then turn right onto the New Hanover/York Road which is signposted. Travel downhill for 3 kilometres. Turn left onto District Road 583. Benvie is signposted at this point and the home is 200m away.

Bosjes

Bosjes is a truly amazing farm with immense beauty and we spent a lovely morning exploring the gardens and being inspired by the diversity and beauty of the South African landscape.

Bosjes is a privately owned family farm situated in the Breedekloof Valley and surrounded by the picturesque Waaihoek and Slanghoek mountains. It produces olives, wine, grapes, peaches and proteas. The farm has several attractions including Bosjes kombuis, a contemporary restaurant with deli, tea garden and children’s play area as well as luxury accommodation and a Spa.

The chapel sits on the main axis of the gardens

The Chapel

The chapel is the focal point of the farm and is a dramatic yet serene icon. The white organic shape of the curving roof floats like a dove with its curving wings merging with the blue flowing hills in the far distance. There is an inscription in the pathway leading to the entrance of the chapel that reads “How precious, O God, is Your constant love! We find protection under the shadow of Your wings” from Psalm 36:7.

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The Gardens

The layout and landscape was designed by award winning landscape architecture firms and truly creates an experience of feeling part of the landscape. Every view and pause area throughout the gardens has been carefully considered and the journey through the beautiful fynbos brings one close to nature, feeling immersed in the landscape. The site has been designed so that views of the surrounding mountains are always part of the experience. You are constantly aware of, and in connection with, the immediate and greater landscape of the valley.

A meandering walk up a small mound leads you to a look out point and seating area where you can appreciate the length of the site as well as the surrounding views. A water feature where you can walk through two banks of cascading water allows for an immersive and poetic experience of ‘walking through water’ or spiritual baptism.

Water Feature

The gardens consist of a predominantly locally indigenous and endemic plant palette although several plants have been included for their Biblical reference and these have sign boards providing  the verse in the Bible where they are mentioned.

Plants with a Biblical reference are sign posted with relevant scripture

There are several garden rooms to explore so make sure you allow enough time to fully enjoy this farm!

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The Botha’s Halte Primary School

The Bosjes Trust was conceived by the owners as a tool for social investment. It was established with a vision to create employment and secure a future for the children of the valley. One of the projects, together with the Department of Education, includes the redevelopment of an adjoining school that one can see when entering at the main gate. (https://bosjes.co.za/care/)

We had a wonderful time exploring the gardens and appreciating the beauty of a well designed landscape and our South African culture, heritage and fauna.

See Bosjes Website for more information: https://bosjes.co.za/gardens/

Note that no outside food or pets are allowed onto the grounds.

History of Greenside - Interview with Mike Little

I (GS) met Mike (ML) when we moved to Greenside a few years ago and was fascinated to hear that he has lived in Greenside for most of his life and seen how the suburb has evolved over time. I asked him if I could Interview him to find out some of his insights into the changes that he has seen and we had this discussion on 26 August 2021. You will see that I’ve kept the dialogue in its original format so that you can almost feel as if you were listening in on the conversation. Some of the conversation has been edited to make for easier reading.

Mike outside his Muirfield home (1944) historic photo 1

GS: Okay, so thanks Mike. Thanks for being willing to be interviewed.

ML: Yes.

GS: So I think I told you that often memory and history can sometimes be inside somebody’s memory or brain and not always written down.

ML: Yes.

GS: So this is one tool of trying to research… kind of finding out a bit more about the history and heritage of the suburb, so that’s why I wanted to ask you-

ML: That’s just Greenside?

GS: Just Greenside, ja, ja.

ML: Okay.

Family History

GS: And so okay, so you can start by introducing yourself, with your full name and then when and where you were born.

ML: Okay, my full name is Michael McMillan Little. I was born in Pretoria.

GS: Okay              .

ML: And we moved to Johannesburg in 1941. And we stayed in 100 Greenway.

GS: Oh yes, really? Before you moved to Muirfield?

ML: For three years.

GS: Okay.

ML: Then they moved to Greenside in ’44. So we moved into this house, in Muirfield road in ’44.

GS: Okay. Why did they move from the Greenway house to the Muirfield house?

ML: The Greenway house was too small.

GS: Okay.

ML: If you go down… You know that security company is hiring that house?

GS: Yes. The one opposite the Woolworths?

ML: Yes that’s right. If you look at it you’ll see it’s quite a small house. The house wasn’t big enough so they decided to move to a bigger house.

Mike outside his Muirfield home - historic photo 2 - note the Plane Tree with tree guard surround in front of the house (see discussion below about tree guards)

Mike outside his home in 2021

GS: Okay, sho. Okay, so you moved here in 1941?

ML: Yes.

GS: And you still live here. So you’ve lived here for… Is that-

ML: Everything except 3 years of my life. I’ve lived here 80 years in Greenside. Yes. Well I’m 83 now.

GS: Ja, you’re 83, sho. Wow, okay. Okay, so tell me about your parents and their parents. So your parents and your grandparents. Where did they come from? Were they South African or?

ML: No, our family comes from Scotland.

GS: Okay.

ML: My grandfather’s Edward Little and he came out to the country-

GS: From Scotland, sho.

ML: Ja, to the Cape Colony.

GS: Oh, wow.

ML: Basically and he was in the, you know in the military wing.

GS: Sho.

ML: They were actually horsemen.

GS: Yes.

ML: And required people… The rifle group required a horseman, so they came out here and he joined them.

GS: Okay.

ML: But they were all very good shots with rifles.

GS: Ja.

ML: And they were very good horsemen.

GS: Sho. So that was your father’s father?

ML: Yes my father’s father. Edward McMillan Little. My father’s Eric McMillan Little.       

GS: Oh, yes.

ML: And he was in the mining business. A mine surveyor.

GS: Oh, okay.

ML: So he worked on a lot of mines.

GS: Okay and that’s why he came to Joburg because of the goldmines or?

ML: Ja, he came-

GS: From Pretoria or it was just-

ML: No they moved here because there were more minerals in… He’s in the mineral exploration.

GS: Oh, okay.

ML: Because all the big mining houses were in Johannesburg-

GS: Yes.

ML: -so they decided to move the office from Pretoria to Johannesburg, so he moved and he got an office in the new law courts. Well they were new in those days.

GS: Oh, yes. Where’s that? What suburb’s that?

ML: No the new law courts is in town.

GS: Oh.

ML: It’s that building. Its sort of got a sort of circular dome and it’s-

GS: Oh, okay.

ML: It’s very well known.

GS: Okay. So that was where his office was?

ML: Yes. And then he used to go out and do mineral exploration.

GS: Yes.

ML: So the job was really to develop mineral resources and to examine them to see if you could get the minerals out that you wanted to and to see if it was a prospect or not. They had to look at all that. And if it was a prospect they developed it to a certain extent and then they would give it to a private company and they would develop it. So Foskor was one of the big ones down in Phalaborwa.

GS: Okay.

ML: They examined all the phosphates there and then they sold it to Foskor.

GS: Okay, sho.

ML: Foskor built it up.

GS: And your mom, what did she get up to?

ML: My mother was born in Natal, so they met on a coalmine in Dundee.

GS: Okay.

ML: Or in that area, ja. Then they got married and then my father got this job with the mineral development, so they moved to Pretoria. But she went to Epworth in Pietermaritzburg. It’s a Methodist school Epworth.

GS: Oh I didn’t know it, ja.

ML: And, ja she also went to university, did an arts degree.

GS: Oh really, wow.

ML: And she was a teacher, yes.

GS: So did she teach while you were living here?

ML: Ja, she taught the piano that’s all.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: No, but she didn’t teach. Except she taught me. A teacher’s always a teacher.

GS: Ja. Oh so she didn’t work in the arts even though that’s what she studied?

ML: No, you know the arts… She did like English-

GS: Yes.

ML: -and history. You know subjects like that.

GS: Ja.

ML: So basically they teach you so that it’s part of arts, but it’s really to prepare you for a teaching career.

GS: Ja, ja.

ML: So you can go and teach English or history-

GS: Oh, okay, sho.

ML: Not mathematics or anything, but you know. Anything to do with the arts degrees.

GS: Okay. Have you got one brother and two sisters?

ML: I’ve got one brother that’s in New Zealand.

GS: Yes.

ML: And he also grew up in Muirfield road.

GS: Oh really, ja.

schooling

ML: Ja, when we moved from Pretoria to here there was no Greenside Primary School, so he went to the Parkview Preparatory School.

GS: Oh, okay, so that was already going?

ML: Ja, but then I went to the Greenside Primary School.

GS: So was the Greenside Primary School, did that only start later in the 1940’s.

ML: Ja, it started I think halfway through… You know my brother when he turned about 4 they built it.

GS: Oh, okay.

ML: So you know he was too young really-

GS: Yes.

ML: -to go to it, so he went to the preparatory school-

GS: In Parkview.

ML: And after that he went to Parktown High.

GS: Okay.

ML: Because he went to Parktown High, I was able to go to Parktown High.

GS: Oh, okay.

ML: Because if you’ve got a brother that goes to the school-

GS: You’re more likely to get in.

ML: Ja, so you know they just started Roosevelt Park School.

GS: Yes.

ML: But I didn’t go to Roosevelt Park. I went to the Parktown.

GS: Yes

ML: So this went on and one of the things that puzzled me about Greenside is when I went to Greenside Primary School they called it GES. It was called Greenside Extension School.

GS: Oh really?

ML: But now I think they dropped the extension away, because it’s just called Greenside Primary School now.

GS: Ja.

ML: But when I went to it, it was called GES, Greenside Extension School.

GS: Oh really? There is still some suburb called Greenside Extension. I’m not sure which one it is exactly.

ML: I can remember I think there were five or six extensions.

GS: Oh, six Greenside extensions?

ML: I think they built… Most probably Greenside proper went up to Mowbray Road. And then Greenside Extension I guess went from Mowbray Road up to Barry Hertzog.

GS: Oh I see, ja.

ML: Then this became a Greenside Extension.

GS: And then there’s Greenside East as well-

ML: Ja, that’s-

GS: -which is different.

ML: -not a Greenside Extension, no. It’s Greenside East.

GS: Oh it’s just a different name.

ML: Ja.

GS: Okay, and then, what did you do after school, Mike? Did you-

ML: No, I went to the University.

GS: Which one?

ML: Wits.

GS: Wits, okay.

ML: And I did electrical engineering.

GS: Okay.

ML: So then I graduated as an electrical engineer.

GS: Ja, and then was that the career that you did for-

ML: Yes.

GS: -for most of your working life?

ML: Yes.

GS: And who did you work for?

ML: No, I worked for various companies.

GS: Okay.

ML: Fuchs Electronics was the first one and then they were bought out by Barlows, so I moved to Barlows.

GS: Okay.

ML: Then Barlows subdivided into a technical group and a food group. So the technical group they called Roytec.

GS: Okay.

ML: And the food group was all Tiger Oats and-

GS: Oh, yes.

ML: -and that sort of Hullett's Sugar and things like that, so I moved then to Roytec. So I worked for them in Roytec.

area around Greenside High School

GS: So then are there any insights with regards to Greenside Primary and Greenside High School. Were they-

ML: No, Greenside High School wasn’t here.

GS: Did that only come much later?

ML: Yes, it only came much later.

GS: And you said once that that used to be a nursery, the site that it’s on or how did that-

ML: Yes. I drew a map. But all this was a open piece of ground where Greenside High is now.

GS: Oh ja, really? The whole of Petra Avenue?

ML: Ja and it was part of the Rand Nursery. I don’t know if you’ve ever heard of the Rand Nursery?

GS: No.

ML: I believe now it’s called the Rand Nursery and it’s moved out near Parkhurst somewhere.

GS: Okay.

ML: But anyway the story was when we came here, the Rand Nurseries had run out of water. Apparently they did all their irrigation from a spring and when they started building tarred roads in this area the spring dried up so then they had to use municipal water. And I think at the end of the day the municipal water became too expensive. So what they did is they moved the nursery down to below the Haven road.

GS: Yes.

ML: And they ran the nursery from there. And then they found it still too expensive to run on municipal water so they closed the whole nursery down. But when we came here, I drew a map here. There was, that’s Greenfield road-

GS: Ja, and here’s Muirfield.

ML: This is Muirfield down here and this is all the houses. Okay. So behind us there was a dam.

GS: Oh really.

ML: But it was empty.

GS: Ja.

ML: But what they did is they had a reservoir here. There was like a spring here and then a municipal reservoir. And then they used to run water down a duct here. It runs…

GS: Can I keep this?

ML: Ja.

ML: They had a duct here that ran down and fed the remains of the Rand Nurseries.

GS: Ja.

ML: And then they used to irrigate all the plants from there.

GS: So was there a spring, a natural spring and then they would pump water from that spring to go and irrigate the plants.

ML: Well you see the spring didn’t produce enough water. The spring didn’t produce enough water so they had to supplement it with municipal water.

GS: Okay.

ML: But this dam was empty and these fields were all empty. We had plenty of sort of Dahlia bulbs that were left behind.

GS: Oh, really?

ML: Suddenly coming up.

GS: Was that because they moved the nursery, so they didn’t use this anymore?

ML: No, they didn’t use it.

GS: Oh.

ML: The nursery was-

GS: Further down.

ML: Further down, ja.

GS: And these?

ML: Those were glass houses.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: There were two glass houses and I don’t know there was some other building there.

GS: So this is now a road that goes like this and this is Petra, hey?

ML: Petra Road-

GS: Is now run… And Greenside High is here? Or did Greenside High get built on this field?

ML: No, this fence here is the fence where Greenside High starts.

GS: Oh yes, okay I see, sho.

ML: So I don’t know… What’s that road that comes up from the bottom there from Gleneagles Road, up past the school? I can’t remember the name of it.

GS: Geers.

ML: Ja, that’s right. Okay, so Geers… This became Geers Avenue up to here, then they built another row of houses here.

GS: Mm.

ML: So Petra Road…

GS: Ja, runs like this, ja.

ML: If you take this here, Petra Road came up like that.

GS: So they must’ve filled that dam in to build the houses on top there.

ML: Ja, they just bulldozed it away.

GS: Oh. Was it a concrete?          

ML: No, no it was a-

GS: Just a earthen.

ML: A mud, ja.

GS: Ja.

ML: But the funny thing is this is Coetzer street here and 1 Coetzer street sits on this old spring here.

GS: Oh really?

ML: I don’t think the people know that they were on an old spring.

GS: Okay, ja. Okay and then, so you mentioned you used to play here. So are there other childhood memories that you had of like the suburb and maybe kind of-

The haven

ML: Well this Haven I remember because there were a lot of children living in the Haven.

GS: Is this Haven here?

ML: No, it disappeared afterwards.

GS: Oh you said Haven was a-

ML: But the Haven Road name still stays there.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: If you go along the Haven Road, there’s a block of houses that actually formed the Haven.

GS: What was the Haven?

ML: It was for homeless children.

GS: Oh, okay. A government-

ML: Yes, it was run by the government.

GS: Run by the government.

ML: But they closed it down afterwards. But I used to play with the children. Actually we used to throw stones at the Haven children. Then one day I was walking to the shops and a lady stopped next to me and said, “Ja, you one of the boys that throws stones at my children.”

GS: So she recognized you.

ML: So she said, “Why don’t you come and visit the place.” And she put me in her car and she took me there and afterwards I sort of mixed with the Haven children.        

GS: And started going to play there and visit them?

ML: Yes.

GS: Oh wow.

ML: And afterwards I used to take them to school, because a lot of them used to pick the flowers on the way up and the people were complaining, so I used to take them-

GS: Drive them.

ML: -take them to school. No I used to walk them-

GS: Oh walk them.

ML: -from the Haven up to the school.

GS: Oh wow. So where was the Haven? Where was the orphanage?

ML: It’s a corner of Geers Avenue-

GS: And Haven.

ML: -and Haven Road, but it took up about three houses.

GS: Oh I see.

ML: So I don’t know they built about six houses or-

GS: Ja.

ML: On that Haven.

GS: Where that was.

ML: Maybe three houses on that Haven.

GS: Oh okay I see.

ML: But they only bought those later. They started building houses here in 1956.

GS: Oh okay.

History of Greenside

ML: And then these houses were all built round about ‘56

GS: But you said that this street, Muirfield these houses were already here?

ML: Yes these ones.

GS: When you moved in. Ja.

ML: But the ones behind that are on Petra road.

GS: They came in the ‘50s. Okay.

ML: Ja, because when I went to high school they started building the houses. Well apparently I knew somebody called Craig Bruce. His daughter’s married to Bruce Fordyce.

GS: Oh really?

ML: But he grew up in a double story house in Troon Road.

GS: Troon. Yes.

ML: And he knew a lot more about Greenside than I knew.

GS: Oh really.

ML: He got it from his father.

GS: Ja.

ML: So his father told him that Greenside actually developed along Greenway.

GS: Greenway Road.

ML: He said the big prestige was to have a double story house on Greenway. So if you go along Greenway have a look how many double story houses there are along Greenway.

GS: Oh really. And who were the people that moved there? Was it just kind of professionals that were looking to-

ML: Ja, I think so.

GS: -to live in suburbs and they kind of built nice houses?

ML: Yes.

GS: Okay.

ML: So he told me that after the Great Depression, about 1930 he said Greenside developed a lot and it developed a lot from about 1930 to 1940.

GS: Okay. Ja, sho, because there’s some beautiful houses.

ML: But you know If you want to know more about that there was somebody I knew at the University called John Carstens and Wendy Carstens.

ML: Okay, they run the Melville Koppies.

GS: Yes, yes.

ML: Now if you go on a Tuesday, they take people for walks along Melville Koppies.

GS: Yes. I’ve been on a Sunday.

ML: Ja a Sunday as well. You have to pay that’s the only thing, but they take you for walks but they know-

GS: All the history.

ML: -an enormous amount about the history.

GS: Yes.

ML: But apparently there were two farms. The one was owned by Frans Geldenhuys.

GS: Yes.

ML: And the other one by another Geldenhuys. I’ve forgotten his first name.

GS: Yes.

ML: So the one farm became, I think became-

GS: I’ve read a little bit about that history, it’s like the formation of Emmarentia.

(See History of Emmarentia Blog Post )

ML: Ja the one farm became the botanical gardens and the mortuary.

GS: Westpark Cemetery.

ML: Westpark Cemetery.

GS: Yes. Yes.

ML: So that was the one farm. The other farm became Greenside and apparently his wife’s name was Emmarentia, and that’s where Emmarentia got its name from.

GS: Yes. Yes.

Road Names

ML: But when we moved here Muirfield road stopped at Barry Hertzog Avenue but in those days it was called Rustenburg Road.

GS: Barry Hertzog used to be called Rustenburg?

ML: Ja it’s still part of-

GS: Oh okay.

ML: -it is called Rustenburg.

GS: Oh really?

ML: You know the part that goes past-

GS: Into Linden. Victory Park and Linden?

ML: Yes that-

GS: Yes.

ML: Because I think if you look up the Dis-Chem, they tell you they on-

GS: Oh is that Rustenburg Road?

ML: Ja.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: So…

GS: So was the dam already there?

ML: Ja, the dam-

GS: The dam was always there.

ML: -the dam was built apparently in about 1900s or something.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: And it was built by hand.

GS: Sho.

ML: And it was built to employ people because people-

GS: After the war.

ML: -didn’t have jobs. Ja. Ja that’s right.

GS: I remember that a little bit, ja.

Fruit Trees

ML: So it was built ja. And then there were just fruit trees around Emmarentia Dam, huge lot of fruit trees.

GS: Fruit trees, sho.

ML: Another thing that struck me about Greenside is how I think they tried to copy Linden. Now Linden everybody had a house and they had a piece of ground. And on the piece of ground you had a sort of recreational area and you had another area where they had fruit trees.

GS: Oh really?

ML: And our house was the same. Our house was sort of divided and we had about five fruit trees. One of them’s still there.

GS: That’s so interesting because ja now-

ML: I think they were trying to copy the Linden. Of course you know the plots are smaller so your-

GS: Ja.

ML: -fruit tree thing was much smaller and…

GS: So what fruit trees did you have in your garden?

ML: Ag, we had-

GS: Lemon maybe?

ML: No, no, no, no, it was plum trees. Hang on, if you tell me the names of the plum trees I can tell you. No, we had about three different types of plum tree.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: And a peach tree I think.

GS: Wow, sho.

ML: Something like that.

GS: Very nice. And what were fruit trees around Emmarentia? All kinds?

ML: Ja, and also where Greenside School was built.

GS: Ja.

ML: That was just full of fruit trees.

GS: Really?

ML: And we used to go and pinch the apricot trees. We used to go pinch the fruit out of there.

GS: So was it just for people to feed off from their residential home or was it a fruit tree farm that they sold the fruit somewhere or?

ML: No, that piece of ground was owned by the Parkview Golf Course.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: I think eventually the Parkview Golf Course sold it to the municipality and they built the Greenside High School there.

GS: Oh, I see.

ML: But it was earmarked for a school for years you know. You couldn’t build houses on it.

GS: Yes, yes. Oh okay.

ML: But I remember they had, to keep guard their fruit trees they imported a bull and put it on the property and one day when we went there to get some fruit this bull started charging us.

GS: Oh my goodness.

ML: Jumped that fence at 100 miles an hour to get away from this bull.

ML: As I say our street number was 46 Muirfield Road because it stopped at Rustenburg Road and Barry Hertzog-

GS: Oh and then at some point they changed all the numbers or what?

ML: No, what happens is they built Muirfield road down to the dam.

GS: The dam, ja.

ML: And then that became a residential area so then there was an extra lot of houses so you can work out the difference between 74 and 46. That’s the number of houses they built between Barry Hertzog and the dam.

GS: Sho. So then your number changed?

ML: Ja. But I can’t remember Troon, but often used to walk to Emmarentia Dam.

GS: Ja.

ML: And if you went along Muirfield Road you got to Rustenburg Road, you crossed it and then it was just veld down to the dam.

GS: Sho.

Emmarentia Dam

ML: And we used to play a lot at the dam-

GS: I’m sure, ja, it must’ve been beautiful.

ML: -especially the river below the dam.

GS: Yes.

ML: We’ve had a lot fun with crabs and things.

GS: Oh really wow.

ML: People used to come there with bread and you hang the bread and the crab would try and grab the bread.

GS: Wow. And did you fish?

ML: No, I don’t think there were many-

GS: Not really fish.

ML: There were some big fish in that dam. I’ve seen dead fish that’s come to the surface and they’ve been big.

GS: Oh.

ML: But I think they were fish that have put into the dam.

GS: Oh maybe. Okay.

ML: These ones with the long whiskers.

GS: Yes the catfish.

ML: Cat. Well, sort of cat.

GS: Barbel.

ML: Barbel. That’s it.

Street Trees

GS: Oh that’s so funny. Okay, so can you tell me a bit about the streets and how you think they’ve changed over time, because I know you mentioned that you remember when they planted the street trees?

ML: Ja that’s right. I think one of the first things I remember is they used to come with a tanker about everyday.

GS: To water them just after planting it.

ML: And they had a canvas hosepipe and they used to water the trees, but all had those frames-

GS: Yes there’s one left at the end of Hoylake Road (see image below)

ML: Yeah there’s one frame that’s sort of grown into the tree.

GS: Yes. So every tree had one of those?

ML: Ja and then it was tied with this three strings.

GS: Ja.

ML: Four strings to keep it in the middle. And then it grew. And later when the trees got bigger they came, they took the-

GS: They removed the steel structures. Okay. Sho.

Parkview Golfcourse

GS: And the Parkview Golf Course. Was that always there?

ML: Ja, that’s been there a long time.

GS: It’s been there long.

ML: One of the big features that… I was overseas for a while and I came back about ’85 and they all jumped on me to sign a petition. Apparently they were going to build a road down Bolton Road.

GS: Oh.

ML: It was going to go over the golf course and then come up Geers Avenue past the school and then go through some houses and then down and go past the wall and Emmarentia Dam and go out. It was a big east west expressway.

GS: Sho.

ML: But it never developed.

GS: Ja. Well thankfully because that would’ve not-

ML: It would’ve ruined Greenside.

GS: Ja definitely.

ML: It would affect the school as well because they have a sort of cement big highway going past the school.

GS: Ja. And anything else about the streets or like the space of the suburb because we’ve kind of spoken about the green spaces like the golf course and the dam. Are there other parks that you visited, maybe that Sir Lionel Phillips and Pirates? Did you spend time there?

ML: Well, the golf course, it had about an extra two holes that they’ve taken away.

GS: Oh really?

ML: And you know where the tennis courts are?

GS: Ja.

ML: And where the bowling green?

GS: Bowling club, ja.

ML: That was actually part of the golf course.

GS: Oh really?

ML: And then they took it away. That’s why you get that link road that goes… Do you know Link Road?

GS: No.

ML: You know if you go along… I forget that bottom road. The one below Gleneagles.

If you go down Link Road you’ll find about seven or eight houses at the bottom of Link Road. The funny thing is one of them’s on 12th Street. And if you look at Parkhurst you see 12th Street comes to the river and stops. And now you got a 12th Street in Greenside.

GS: And then it jumps the river. Oh wow.

ML: And then they never built a bridge to sort of link it up.

GS: Oh, I see.

ML: But that could’ve been one of the extensions of Greenside.

GS: Ja.

ML: But take a walk there sometime.

GS: Ja, I must go have a look. Sounds interesting.

ML: If you walk down Link Road they’re so surprised that you’re going down Link Road, you know what you coming down Link Road for because-

GS: No one goes there.

ML: It doesn’t go anywhere.   

Pirates   

GS: Okay. And Pirates has that been there for long. I don’t know about Pirates. Or that Lionel Phillips Park?

ML: Ja, the Lionel Phillips Park I think’s been going a long time. But Pirates I don’t know. You see, I don’t think it existed because I joined the Wanderers.

GS: Oh I see.

ML: And I don’t think Pirates was there at the time.

GS: Okay.

ML: I stayed at the Wanderers, but now the Wanderers is a too bit far for me to go now nowadays.

GS: Yes, what did you used to do, did you do running?

ML: Squash.

GS: Squash. Okay.

ML: Squash. Had a lot of friends that were mad about squash.

GS: Yes, oh cool.

ML: And the thing is that they had about six courts up there and used to be about a group of six of us and we used to go, so we occupied three squash courts.

GS: Oh nice.

ML: So if you went after half past nine at night, the bookings stopped like at half past nine, so you could play squash there.

Greenside Businesses

ML: Well the Greenside shops were maybe of interest. There was a butcher there.

GS: In Gleneagles Street?

ML: No in Greenway.

GS: In Greenway. Okay. .

ML: That Chemist has been there for years. It was run by a chap called Shovren. It was called Shovren’s Chemist. And there’s a cinema there called the Rex Cinema.

GS: Next to the pharmacy?

ML: Yes.

GS: Wow.

ML: That’s where that hairstylist is-

GS: Yes, the Carlton Hair Academy?

ML: If you look at it’s a peculiar shape building-

GS: Yes, did that used to be a… Okay, wow.

ML: And then opposite the cinema there was a sort of soda fountain where the people used to go during the break of the cinema and buy cold drinks and stuff.

GS: Sho. Ja and then… You said that there used to be two shuls, synagogues?

ML: No, the only one I know. Well this one down the road. That’s been there for years and the one in Emmarentia is a newer synagogue. But this one down in Greenside East has been there a long, long time.

GS: Yes, yes and when was the mosque built?

ML: Oh that’s very recent.

GS: Very recent, oh. And it’s interesting that there’s no church in Greenside.

ML: It was one of the conditions that the Geldenhuys’s laid down. That they cannot build a church in Greenside and they cannot have a pub in Greenside. It was one of the conditions that the ground was sold.

GS: Oh that’s interesting.

ML: So there’re no churches allowed in Greenside and no bars.

GS: So are there no churches in Emmarentia and Linden either because that was also part of the Geldenhuys land?

ML: I don’t know whether it followed through to… but it’s possible it did. That was a condition. So you know to balance it, no churches and no bars. It was one of the conditions.

GS: Oh okay, that’s interesting.

ML: Well that’s a good thing because we’ve never had a bar in Greenside, like you got a pub down in Parkhurst. But you know they seem to get around it by having off sales.

GS: Yes.

ML: And then there was a post office in Greenside, but it was on Greenfield Road.

GS: Okay.

ML: Later on they moved it up to Greenway.

Changes over time

ML: Well I tell you the thing that did change the suburb a lot is this Greenside High School because you started getting a lot of traffic down Muirfield road.

GS: Yes, yes, ja. I actually quite like hearing the kids walk past, down the street in the afternoon because it’s like a nice sound.

ML: But also the Greenside Primary’s changed a lot as well.

GS: Yes.

ML: It’s a lot of extra buildings on it now.

GS: Ja.

ML: When I was there, there was no school hall.

GS: Oh really, sho. They just started building it.

ML: There was no swimming pool.

GS: Wow. Have they got a pool now?

ML: Yes.

GS: So did your kids go to Greenside as well?

ML: Yes. All of them went to Greenside High.

GS: Greenside High and Greenside Primary?

ML: Yes.

GS: Oh they didn’t go to… You said you went to Parktown.

ML: Ja I went to Parktown but they had to go to Greenside.

GS: Oh, okay they went to…

ML: We could’ve tried to get them into Parktown maybe, but I don’t know… It’s a question of whether you go to a co-ed school or a…

GS: Yes.

ML: See my parents didn’t want me to go to a co-ed school. No, I don’t know, you see when they started Roosevelt it was a co-ed school and they didn’t want me to go to a co-ed school. They wanted me to go to an all boys school, can concentrate more if there’re no girls in the class.

GS: Ja, there’s still that debate.

ML: My brother automatically gave me access to Parktown Boys. So I was off to Parktown Boys no questions. But there was a boy the same age as me living next door and he went to Roosevelt and he was a founder member but that Roosevelt took a while to sort of get itself sorted out. There was a lot of trouble there.

first bus in greenside

ML: But I can remember the big event was when the first bus came to Greenside. It was a number 46 and they built that circle so the bus could turn around.

GS: Which circle? The one next to the golf course?

ML: No, where they’ve got the robots now. You know when you go down Greenway.

GS: Ja.

ML: There used to be a restaurant called The Circle.

GS: The Circle.

ML: And then there was a circle there.

GS: Oh.

ML: But now they got rid of the circle and they made a funny interchange there.

GS: Oh yes that one. Ja. Where was the circle?

ML: Where the robots are now at the bottom of Greenway.

GS: Oh.

ML: Opposite PostNet. Do you know where PostNet is?

GS: Oh, there where they’ve now done that upgrade at the carpet shop.

ML: That’s where the circle was.

GS: Oh okay and there was a restaurant called The Circle?

ML: Yes.

GS: And why was it such a big thing to have the bus come?

ML: Because I had to walk to Parkview to catch a tram into town. The only way to get into town was to walk to… Ja, you go across Chester Road and I think you go to Cardigan Road is it, I don’t know. Anyways you know the road that goes up to Parktown North?

GS: Ja.

ML: There was a tram there.

GS: A tram.

ML: And it went from Parktown North and it went down-

GS: Into town.

ML: And then it went past the Zoo Lake.

GS: Ja.

ML: Then it went up past the Zoo.

GS: Oh, okay.

ML: And then it went into town.

GS: Sho.

ML: So the only way without a car.

GS: Ja. So then when the busses came then you started going by bus to school?

ML: Ja, but the-

GS: Was that much easier?

ML: -bus service was so terrible. You had about a bus every hour something.

GS: Oh okay, wow.

ML: I remember the first bus was number 46 Greenside and I was so excited to see a bus coming to Greenside because you didn’t have to walk to the tram.

GS: Ja.

ML: Catch a tram into town.

GS: Sho. And is that where you did your shopping, in town? Like where did you normally-

ML: Well, I used to go with my mother because my mother couldn’t drive.

GS: Okay.

ML: So I used to go with my mother and we used to go to a place called Jensen Groceries or something.

GS: Where was that?

ML: Ag it was somewhere in town, I can’t remember, but I used to help her carry all her groceries to the tram and then bring them back here.

GS: Because there was probably no Checkers down the road.

ML: No, there was-

GS: No shop close by here.         

ML: No, the only thing in Greenside from what I can remember was a butchery.

GS: Yes.

ML: And a chemist.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: And the cinema and a café.

GS: Okay, sho.

ML: And there was a grocer shop that was down on Greenfield Road, but he closed because the supermarket put him out of business.

GS: Oh, I see.

ML: But there was a grocer.

GS: Ja.

ML: I can remember going to the grocer.

GS: Sho.

ML: And I was about to buy something there and some women came and told me, “You know you can get that at half price at Checkers,” or something.

GS: Shame, so that’s why they closed. Shame. Ja, so thanks Mike, ja it was just basically to just hear a bit more about the suburb. It would be interesting also to hear from other people.

ML: It’s a pity that Craig Bruce, he died.

GS: Oh, yes.

ML: We used to play tennis with him.

GS: Oh, really.

ML: But he knew a lot more about Greenside than I did.

GS: Yes, ja.

ML: And he used to tell me a lot about Greenside.

GS: Oh really, ja. And just hearing like the memories of a place, of growing up here, what was significant, what was memorable, like the bus story is a great one.

ML: Ja, you see there was… Parkhurst had a lot of people who worked on lathes, artisans.

GS: Oh yes.

ML: And they used to go into town and work at places like Hubert Davies, so that’s why the Parkhurst service was far better than the Greenside service.

GS: Oh.

ML: And they used to go in early in the morning. You see I had to do vac work and I had to work at Hubert Davies and anyway. I had to be at Hubert Davies some unearthly hour, seven, half past seven in the morning.

GS: Sho.

ML: And there were no busses so I had to basically make use of the Parkhurst… I had to walk to Cardigan Road and catch a Parkhurst bus.

GS: Oh okay.

ML: Walk down… Because there were plenty of Parkhurst busses and hardly any Greenside busses.

GS: Sho.

ML: But the Greenside busses sort of started later so I couldn’t get into town in time.

Trees

GS: Ja, and then sorry just lastly with this nursery… is that why Greenside also has more trees, or like more unusual trees than maybe other suburbs or why do you think…

ML: I belong to this walking group.

GS: Ja.

ML: And this bloke walked along the Parkview Golf Course and he said the whole walk he’s seen about three indigenous trees. All the-

GS: All exotics.

ML: So basically what it turns out, some Englishman came here and he wants to be back in England, so that’s why those oaks up at avenue to that-

GS: To Greenside High School.

ML: Ja, well it was a farmhouse in those days. I think it was a farmhouse.

GS: Oh yes.

ML: And he thinks he was back in England and he wanted to come up a avenue of oak trees to his farmhouse, so he planted all these oak trees, but apparently that’s the sort of story.

GS: Sho.

ML: So the bloke says the people wanted to play golf in Parkview as though they were playing golf in England, they wanted to see all the same trees, so they imported trees and imported trees. You know the trees that grow in this country have got tap roots. These trees have got roots that spread out, that’s why all my paving’s lifting up because the roots go out horizontally.

GS: Ja, ja.

ML: But that’s a story I got out of him. They call them exotic trees and that causes a lot of trouble, because we used to walk at Delta Park and there was a avenue of what, cotton trees and it must’ve also been a road that went to somebody’s house but he says the seeds fall off and then they get washed down towards the river and then more trees come up close to the river. Eventually he says the river gets full of cotton seeds and then they start coming up in the river bed all the way-

GS: Down the-

ML: Ja and he says it’s a big headache.

GS: Sho.

ML: Especially the black wattle.

GS: Yes.

ML: It’s a weed.

GS: Ja, like there a lot of oaks and these plane trees but then I’ve seen like some unusual ones as well.

ML: It’s all Englishmen that brought the stuff out apparently.

GS: Oh yes.

ML: And most probably that’s why we’ve got plane trees because somebody I walked with that seemed to be, he must’ve had a degree in botany and zoology and what have you, but he seemed to know all about plants, because we were talking about clivias and he’s talking about clivias, where you’ve got to plant them and all the rest of it and he was going on, but he told me that these plane trees exactly the same as the plane trees in England or something. Because I said, we used to call them maple trees, but they not maple trees they plane trees. No, he corrected me.

GS: London plane, ja.

ML: He says it’s a London plane. No, he asked me, “Has it got a white bark?” I said, “Yes.” He said, “No that’s a London plane, it’s not a maple tree at all.”

importance of memory

GS: Oh, okay. And okay, so… Why do you think it’s important personally to remember and think about history and appreciate history of a place?

ML: Oh well I don’t know, I’ve had this question answered by other people. They say, have you ever lived without a memory?

GS: Okay.

ML: They say, “Living without history is like living without a memory.”

GS: So it’s good to-

ML: So history is a absolute necessity. That’s what they tell me. Some expert psychologist told me that story. So it’s true in a way.

GS: Ja.

ML: So you know if the history of Greenside was blotted out, you’d have no memory of Greenside. Same as if your memory was blotted out, you would forget all your school days and everything.

GS: Oh Okay. Ja, so those are all my questions Mike.

ML: What is this for? Is this a…

GS: No, I just want to write a blog on my website about the history of Greenside.

ML: Yes.

GS: Then I thought as part of my research I could… I’m struggling because I went to the Parkview Library and they’ve got a few booklets on the history of Parkview but it doesn’t… No mention of Greenside. And obviously Emmarentia’s got that whole Louw Geldenhuys history and… but there’s not really a lot of specific… like even this Rand Nurseries. Finding out more information about it, it’s very hard to come by.

ML: Look, I suggest you go and see John Carstens.

GS: Maybe.

ML: Because he knows a lot more than I know I think. You see that Melville Koppies might’ve been a part of the farm, I’m not sure.

GS: Yes.

ML: I don’t know whether it stopped-

GS: Yes, I think it is part of that original-

ML: I don’t know. You see, the farm might’ve stopped at Judith Road and Melville Koppies is something else.

GS: Ja.

ML: The other hand the Melville Koppies might be part of the farm, I don’t know.

GS: Ja.

ML: But the farm house is in Orange Road. It’s quite well known.

GS: Okay. Is that where Emmarentia lived? I think I’ve read a bit about that.

ML: Yeah that’s where the farm was.

GS: I think they read about that.

ML: There’s not much history-

GS: -I’ll write something up.

ML: -on Greenside.

GS: Ja.

ML: But you learn from history. Well, you should learn but… Okay, are you finished then?

GS: Ja, thanks so much Mike. Thanks very much for your time and, all the insights.

Trees to fall in love with in the Cape

Amazing Camphor Forest to explore at Vergelegen Wine Estate

Trees are amazing - immovable, peaceful, serene, fearless, stoic, content, connected, grounded, complex and beautiful. Here are a few I enjoyed seeing on our holiday to the Cape in April:

The Camphor Forest at Vergelegen Wine Estate

These are really some of the most spectacular trees I have seen and a whole forest of them is something to witness. Visitors are able to enjoy classical picnics in the camphor forest from November - April by pre-booking (no private picnics). The five enormous camphor trees in front of the Homestead are over 300 years old and were planted by WIllem Adriaan van der Stel in 1700. (See previous post on Vergelegen as well as Vergelegen’s Website)

5 Enormous Trees in front of the Homestead at Vergelegen Estate

Royal Oak Tree at Vergelegen Wine Estate

Another beauty on the same estate is the Royal Oak which was planted in 1928 and was grown from one of the last acorns of King Alfred’s Oak at Blenheim Palace, England. It has an emormous crown diameter and stand majestically in the lawn. The plaque below the tree reads “Acorns from this tree were personally collected on 23rd of April 1947 by His Majesty King George VI for replanting in Windsor Park” as well as “Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II unveiled this plaque on 21 March 1995 in commemoration of her visit to Vergelegen”. The oldest Oak tree to be recorded (planted around 1700) is a stone’s throw away but is not nearly as spectacular.

Ficus at Natte Valleij Wine Farm

I discovered this tree while we stayed at accommodation (the Hen House) on Natte Valleij wine farm in Stellenbosch. The wine farm is not very large or well known so the tree is a bit off the beaten track. The buttress roots are as thick as any average tree trunk and they snake their way across the ground like large limbs. The smooth grey roots are thick enough to sit on and we had fun jumping our way around the main trunk.

Trees at Newlands Forest

While many of these species are Pine trees there are clumps of indigenous vegetation along the hiking routes and if you are a tree lover you will appreciate any beautiful tree whether they are exotic or indigneous.

Also worth visiting is The Company Gardens in the city centre where an enormous Rubber Tree can be seen as well as several other historic and beautiful trees. There are so many more to talk about, some we pass by each day without really noticing them. Open your eyes to the wonder all around you!

Melville Koppies

Like many people who have lived in Johannesburg for many years (some even their whole lives!) I had never visited the nature reserve in the heart of Johannesburg.

I had heard so much about it - the beautiful views, the amazing birdlife (over 200 spp), the incredible flora and the rich history that this nature reserve held so I was so excited to finally visit it. I met with a group of friends in the Marks Park Sport Club parking lot off Judith Road and we crossed carefully to enter the Main Gates framed by stone walls.

The reserve has recently changed its opening times to every Sunday morning from 8 to 11.30am. Visitors are welcomed on arrival by volunteers and given a map so that they can explore the trails at their own pace. The cost is R80 per adult and R40 per child and all proceeds are used towards the maintenance of the Park. Guided tours for small groups can be arranged.

The Central section was proclaimed a nature reserve in 1959 and is a declared national heritage site. The 50ha area can be explored through pathways and there are information boards detailing the heritage and history of the area as well as the fauna and flora to be found there.

The reserve is made up of three sections namely Melville Koppies Central, Melville Koppies East and Melville Koppies West. The East and West sections are open public space and access is not controlled. The East side is only 10ha in size and is frequented by dog walkers while the West section is 100ha large and borders the Westpark Cemetery. There are security issues here so it is advisable to only hike in groups with security. I was surprised to see security guards actively patrolling the nature reserve (Central) when we visited on Sunday and this really added to a sense of safety which is always a concern when visiting public spaces in Johannesburg.

Map from the Melville Koppies Website (www.mk.org.za/mkcal.htm)

Map of Melville Koppies Central Walking Paths

More information on the geology of the reserve can be found on their website www.mk.org.za

Vegetation

The vegetation of the Koppies is entirely indigenous and is a remarkable example of the richness of highveld grasses, flowers, and trees so close to a city centre. The variety of the flora can be seen in the 500 identified species within the eight undisturbed plant communities that have been identified. There are also 56 species of grass recorded and the dominant trees include Acacia robusta, Acacia caffra, Euclea crispa (Blue Guarri), Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Brachylaena rotundata and (Mountain Silver-oak). The Protea caffra and Mundelea sericea (Corkbush) were also lovely to see.

Along the western boundary where the Westdene Spruit flows a beautiful riverine forest can be found with large Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Combretum erythrophyllum (River Bushwillows), Olea europea (Wild Olive), and Kiggelaria africana (Wild Peach). The trees were planted in the 1960s to show people how beautiful our indigenous trees are. This part of the reserve is known as the Arboretum and was a highlight for me - the flowing water is calming and the trees beautiful and shady.

Water

This stream, the Westdene Spruit, is one of the many streams flowing north from the Witwatersrand watershed. Among them are the Braamfontein Spruit and the Jukskei, and they all eventually join the Limpopo River, which enters the Indian Ocean at Xai-Xai in Mozambique.

History

Melville Koppies carries evidence of ancient hunter-gatherers, early farmers as well as the first iron-age miners of the Witwatersrand. In 1989 Professor R J Mason published a "Guide to Archaeology Sites: Johannesburg". The purpose of the paper was as much to inform and educate the public as to make a plea for greater awareness of the heritage we are losing.

He identified seven archaeological sites on what we call Melville Koppies Central: African Iron Furnace Models; A second Tswana Iron Furnace; Tswana hut floor and pottery - 300 years old; 1880s gold prospecting; 1900s gun emplacement and Early 1900s quarries. There are information boards and examples of some of the tools and implements on display at the lecture hall.

The fascinating history of how the original Braamfontein farm passed to Louw Geldenhuis during the gold rush in 1886 and how the northern suburbs evolved out of this can also be viewed on an information board at the lecture hall.

Volunteers

The nature reserve would not be what it is today without the involvement of passionate and dedicated volunteers. The Melville Koppies Management Committee works hard to maintain the paths, control alien invasive vegetation, pick up litter and control illegal access to maintain the reserve on an ongoing basis. They also are always looking for ways to raise money for the reserve so that the salaries of the staff they employ can be paid as well as the additional security they hire.

Richard Hall devoted over 25 years to the maintenance of Melville Koppies and together with David Mpilo, a Council worker they tackled projects of cleaning, weeding and restoring the reserve. Wendy Carstens began to work with Richard Hall from 1997 and is still actively involved today. She received the honorary Ellen Kuzwayo award from the University of Johannesburg for ‘Her commitment to conservation and tourism at Melville Koppies’.

How can you help

You can help firstly by visiting (have you?) and also by making donations to Melville Koppies (bank details on their website) or by registering them as a MySchoolMyVillageMyPlanet beneficiary.

Contact Wendy Carstens wendavid@mweb.co.za for further information. www.mk.org.za

We loved our time spent at Melville Koppies and will definitely be back again! Thank you to all those involved in the upkeep and running of this historical and ecological gem.

Discovering The Wilds, a Historical Park in Johannesburg

Kudu Sculpture with View of Telkom Tower from The Wilds

I had heard rumours about a beautiful outdoor space in Johannesburg called The Wilds but it was shrouded in mystery and even the name made me imagine an overgrown and slightly dangerous place to visit, naturally making me a bit apprehensive to go there. When I eventually did visit I was completely taken aback by the beauty and history of this Park. I was captivated by the winding stone paths, the incredible views, the amazing selection of indigenous plants and the artworks that brought such an element of fun and wonder.

Location

The Wilds is located on Houghton Drive, Houghton and is situated on the Parktown Ridge. It consists of two parts, East and West, and is connected by a bridge over Houghton Drive. The West is more park-like and popular amoung visitors, especially the Giraffe Lawn area while the East is recommended to walk in Groups.

Map of the Park at Main Entrance

History

The Park, like Zoo Lake and the Johannesburg Zoo, was a corporate gift to the citizens of Johannesburg. In 1924 the Johannesburg Consolidated Investment Company (JCI) donated the land, on condition that it remained in its natural state and open to the public. Once it was completed in 1938 it was opened to the public. In 1968 the JCI again donated to the park in the form of four greenhouses. It was declared a national monument in 1981.

In the 1980s and 1990s it was hit by crime and people stopped visiting. The park became forgotten and overgrown. In the early 2000s the park was fenced off and a resident named TJ de Klerk tried to revive it by taking people on guided walks on both sides of the park. See more about the rejuvenation of the Park further below, but let’s first look at its physical features:

Vegetation

The trees are incredible – massive Yellowwoods, Lavender Trees, Fever Trees, White Stinkwoods, Cabbage Trees, Olive Trees and a stunning assortment of Cycads and Aloes. The beds below the trees are filled with indigenous groundcovers and I saw plants on display that are seldom seen elsewhere (E.g Pycnostachys urticifolia). This collection of plants has developed over the years as supporters have donated plants and a large donation was made after the Empire Exhibition in 1936 when the Golden Jubilee (50th anniversary) of Johannesburg was celebrated.

Pathways

The winding pathways and staircases (over 8km) are made out of natural packed stone and these create a delightful maze to explore and discover. There is good signage that ensures you don’t get lost and also a map at the entrance to orientate yourself when first arriving. We naturally made our way up through the park, following the paths to the highest point of the park where the sundial is located and the views are panoramic.

Can you spot the Owls? There are 67

Beautiful Stone Pathways

Benches for resting and clear Signage

Sundial

The sundial was created and installed by sundial maker Malcolm Barnfield and stonemason Dave Baguley in 2005 and is inscribed with the words “I only count the sunny hours”. The message around the base of the dial reads “Blessed too is he who learned to know the God of The Wilds” which was previously depicted on a plaque commemorating the words spoken by Jan Smuts. When Smuts died in 1950 The Wilds was dedicated to his memory. (Davie, L. A journey through Johannesburg’s Parks, Cemeteries and Zoo. 2014. JHB City Parks and Zoo)

Sculpture

One of the highlights of The Park must certainly be the striking steel sculptures  (mostly animals) made by artist James Delaney who has also been instrumental in transforming and rejuvenating the park (See Rejuvenation below). The first installation took place in 2017 as a means of drawing people’s attention to the park. As it was close to Mandela Day, he chose to design 67 owl sculptures that would hang high in the forest and these are a delight to find for young and old alike.  Delaney explains that the sculptures start as charcoal sketches which are then laser cut from steel and painted or powder coated. The pink and yellow giraffe, located on the large bottom lawn area is life size and visible from the main road running past the park. According to Delaney this was a deliberate intervention to draw people’s attention to this once neglected space. The sculpture installations in the park won an award from BASA (Business Arts South Africa) in 2018. (https://www.delaney.co.za/outdoor-sculpture/)

Giraffe Lawn in the late afternoon with visitors picnicking

Bush Baby Forest

Views

The park offers views of Hillbrow, Berea and the inner city. This includes views of several Johannesburg landmarks, including Ponte City Apartments, The Hillbrow Tower, St. Johns School for Boys, Roedean School for Girls, and many mansions in the suburb of Houghton. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wilds_Municipal_Nature_Reserve)

Rejuvenation

It has only been in the last few years that the Park has been fully revived and people feel safe enough to return. This has largely been brought about by artist James Delaney who has spent a considerable amount of time and money on generating funding and gaining support for the Park. He received an AfriSam-SAIA Award for his work in raising over R100 000 but this is just one of the many interventions he has championed. It is inspiring to read his story and how he became involved.

Here is an excerpt taken directly from his website where he details the history of his involvement and the progress made: (taken from https://www.delaney.co.za/installations/my-story-of-the-wilds/)

“Here are some highlights of the work that’s been achieved with my team, with volunteers and with the City Parks Wilds staff on the ground;

• Restoration of 80 park benches, repainting them in bold colours on volunteer days, with donated paint and tools.

• A mini library was donated for the entrance, from which people borrow or take books. It’s become really well used, especially by kids from the inner city.

• Negotiation with Roedean School to take down their stone wall, which had become unstable, and replaced with a fence, and the stone donated to The Wilds.

• Construction of the circular entrance area with seating, designed by Martine de la Harpe and built by JJ with the Roedean stone. This used to an eroded slope of dirt, a depressing welcome to the park. This was sponsored by Hollard, whose Villa Arcadia head office shares the same ridge as The Wilds, and they have done considerable indigenous planting to restore their landscape.

• Sealing the ponds and the installation of a pump which draws water discarded by Gautrain (they pump millions of litres out of their tunnels into the underground river). This water now flows beautifully though the lower ponds, and back into the river. This system was developed and installed by YPO, and opened by the Mayor. (YPO also got the upper ponds and waterfalls working for a while, but we’re waiting for City Parks to install a new pump for that system.)

• Mulching of flowerbeds. City Parks always used to take leaves to the dump, but I eventually convinced them to layer them on flowerbeds to protect the soil. They still won’t allow us to make compost.

• Design and installation of 100 items of signage throughout the park, thanks again to Hollard – directional, rules, information and welcome signage. Because City Parks has dated and unfriendly signage design, I redesigned a whole signage template for them. Most of the new signs are mounted onto a recycled plastic product.

• Huge weeding, every summer, which has broken the seed cycle of blackjacks and khakibos in most of the West Wilds (we have a long way to go in the East Wilds).

• Restoration of the hillside where the sundial is, including replanting indigenous grasses and aloes and removing all the nasty rusted wire fencing.

• Resurfacing of the carpark and internal road, and painting the pedestrian bridge (done by JRA, but I lobbied for it).

• Repairs to broken and missing pieces of fence, especially on the East Wilds (which is an ongoing job).

• Installation of fencing along Munro Drive, to complete the fencing of the entire perimeter of the park.

• A friend of The Wilds replaced the decrepit security hut, with a new structure which was warmer and nicer for the guards.

• Regular “Walk n Talk” sessions where visitors are led around the park in conversation with interesting people.

• Several weekly exercise classes on the lawns, run by various people who love outdoor training.

• Corporate events, weddings, small events and school tours have become a regular occurrence, providing an income stream to the city (unfortunately this doesn’t directly benefit The Wilds). They must be booked via City Parks, but when organisers approach me, I always ask them to add an element of giving back to the park, usually through volunteer work.

• Moving large aloes from locations where they are in too much shade (they start rotting) into the sun.

• Collecting cuttings for the nursery, which now has several thousand plants, particularly succulents. This has been an ongoing job benefiting from dozens of volunteer hands.

• Restoration of the abandoned compost area with the Rosebank Scouts.

• Large new flowerbeds around Giraffe Lawn, and repairing the little bridge, now adorned with crocheted flowers by local artist Curious Sleuth.

• Other artists are making their mark too; there was a land art project, and Gordon Froud’s sculpture installation, made from orange beacons, stands on the East Wilds.

• Planting indigenous trees. Volunteers have started labeling them too. We now also plant along the streets surrounding the park, to extend the forest canopy.

• Clean-up of the climbing wall, which is now regularly used.

• Clearing of invasive alien trees on the edges of both the East and West Wilds.

• Lining several kilometres of pathways with stones, to prevent damage to the plants on the edges.

• Restoration of 4 drinking fountains, broken for decades. Local mosaic artists are making beautiful detailing.

• The Munro Centenary Gates, which I drew using aloes as a motif which now stand on the Munro Drive side. Look carefully for the owls and mouse…

As the sculptures became popular, I used them to open up sections of the park that people weren’t visiting – they became destinations within the park, allowing people to walk further and spend more time exploring. There are now 100 sculptures – monkeys, a pangolin, ostriches, the red kudu family, klipspringers, duiker and more.

The largest is a 5 metre high pink and yellow giraffe, on what is now known as Giraffe Lawn. This was an important landmark piece as it is visible from the road, drawing the attention of passers-by. I crowdfunded to pay for the materials, which were considerable – it’s so heavy it had to be installed using a crane, and we had to bring a concrete mixer down narrow stone paths to lay the large block of concrete below ground to support it.” Read more on his website

How can you make a difference

Every person can make a difference in this life. We are all uniquely situated with unique talents and abilities. If we look back over the history of this park we see demonstrations of generosity where people have given land, time, money, plants, energy and love. The Wilds is a Park layered with history, memory and natural beauty. Fortunately for the citizens of Johannesburg James Delaney got a dog and needed a place to walk him and through his efforts over these recent years we can again experience this remarkable space. Where can you make a contribution to a park, an organisation or initiative to make a difference in your community?

Vergelegen Wine Estate

View of the Mountains from Stables Restaurant at Vergelegen

You know you have arrived somewhere special when your heart starts beating slower as you drive down the oak tree lined driveway and approach the entrance gate to Vergelegen Estate. This historic farm was granted to Governer Willem Adriaan van der Stel in 1700. Here he built an estate that reflected the Renaissance influence of wealthy estates and palaces in Europe with their symmetrical plans and ornate gardens. Vergelegen was laid out with a double walled octagonal garden, radial avenues, and four flanking outbuildings - the slave lodge, water mill/stable, the wine cellar and the pigeon house. 

The gardens are vast and many hours can be spent exploring them. When the estate was taken over by Anglo American group in 1987 they tasked their team to restore the grounds to the historic core of the estate and this emphasis can clearly be felt. There are 17 unique gardens to explore and wander through including: Octagonal Garden, David Austin Rose Garden, Reflection Garden, Rose Garden, Sundial Garden, Bamboo Garden, East Garden (In front of Stables), Agapanthus Garden, Camellia Garden of Excellence, Wetland Garden, Fynbos Garden (Cellar), Hydrangea Garden, Yellowwood Walk, Maple Garden, Oak Arboretum, Camphor Forest, Ginko Trees, and the Children’s Adventure Garden.

Sundial Garden next to the newly renovated Wine Tasting Centre and Stables Restaurant

Information Centre and Wine Tasting is the first building you enter from the Parking Area

The Octagonal garden is bordered by a pergola covered walkway along the perimeter and a beautiful garden within this formal enclosed space. A herbaceous border has been planted on either side of the pathway leading to the Homestead with more large Camphor trees adjacent the building.

There is so much to see on this beautiful estate that you may not fit everything in. I advise exploring the gardens in a clockwise direction from the Information Centre. Starting in the Sundial Garden first make your way to the Octagonal Garden, then the Rose Garden, Camphor Forest, Wetland Walk, Reflection Garden, and ending at the Stables restaurant. If you have kids they will have fun in the play area while you enjoy a glass of wine (or coke) after all the walking. If you still have energy you can do the maze which is made from non fruit bearing vines. Depending on how much time you have will also determine if you can fit in the Maple Tree and Yellowwood Walk into your visit. Remember Camellia peak flowering times are June to August so make sure to fit that in if you’re visiting in winter.

Reflection Garden

Oldest Recorded Oak Tree

Wetland Walk

Camphor Forest

The Camphor Forest is absolutely breathtaking. You feel as if you are transported into another world as you walk through this enchanted landscape. The trees have been grown from seedlings from the ‘Big Five’ which are the five original Camphor trees planted in 1700 situated at the front of the Homestead.

Agapanthus Garden

You may also be interested in the refurbished and exquisitely furnished buildings such as the Homestead and Library as well as dining at one of the three venues: Camphors at Vergelegen is the signature restaurant overlooking the lawns and gardens located next to the historic Homestead; Stables at Vergelegen is a more casual dining experience with a lovely play area close by and stunning views of the Hottentots Holland mountain range; and finally the Picnic at Vergelegen can be pre-booked and enjoyed in the incredible Camphor tree forest between November and April.

Playground which is situated next to Stables Restaurant

Vergelegen has a vast and rich history and diverse and beautiful gardens that they clearly put a lot of time and effort into maintaining. A visit to this special estate is a rich and rewarding experience.

(Some of the Photographs are from my visit in 2016 and others were taken at my most recent visit - April 2021)

Contact Info

Address:
Vergelegen Estate | Somerset West, South Africa

Phone:
+27 21 847 2100

Email:
info@vergelegen.co.za